Mike & Carol's Bushtracker Adventures Around Australia

Sunday, June 25, 2006

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 17 June to Friday 23 June

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006
Saturday 17 June to Friday 23 June
Timber Creek to Kununurra
Blog 8


Our stay at Timber Creek was not what we thought it would be. We had planned on seeing Limestone Gorge but the road was still closed The Police Station Museum at Timber Creek was also closed but we enjoyed seeing what was outside anyway and then we decided to stop at all the lookouts west of Timber creek on our way to Lake Argyle.

Policeman’s Point Lookout was down along the magnificent Victoria River then the Timber Creek Scenic Lookout took us to the top of a hill which over looked the town of Timber Creek, the meandering of the Victoria River and the valleys. It also had a monument to the Nackeroos, a volunteer group that kept a watch over the territory during WW2. They are fantastic stories and things that we knew nothing about. Our last stop near Timber Creek was Gregory’s Tree Boardwalk which was the Boab tree that the explorer Augustus Gregory had marked in October 1855 and July 1856 when he left. The writing was beautiful and had grown as the tree had grown.

We crossed into Western Australia gave up any fruit we had left, turned back our clocks 1.5 hours and headed for Lake Argyle.

The colours of Lake Argyle were striking, the red of the rocks the blue of the water and the sky and the trees were fantastic. We explored some of the surrounds of the man made lake which was built to irrigate the farms at Kununurra. We drove to the top of the Water Tank Lookout then on down to the Boat Ramp, over the Dam Wall and down to the Ord River Power station. We then headed to Dead Horse Springs and Pannikin Sunset Lookout which were 4 WD tracks. We just managed to get there at sunset and the view was breathtaking.

We visited the Durack’s Homestead that had been dismantled and re-assembled exactly as it was. We had been here on the previous trip so we just waited in the beautiful garden and watched the Bower Birds in their nest. It was fantastic.

In the evening we took a sunset cruise on the Argyle Lake. The Lake is so big that it is classed as an inland sea. It is 18 times the volume of Sydney Harbour.

We saw rock wallabies, very large fresh water crocodiles, archer fish that squirt at insects out of the water in order to make them drop and then they eat them. They are very accurate with their squirt. The huge spiders that we have been seeing everywhere are called Golden Orb spiders. They are not dangerous but their web is SO strong that NASA analyzed it and has since produced synthetic material out of the same compound for space suits and other things.

We then drove on to Kununurra and made it our home base for a few days. Time to stop, relax and do a bit of much needed house keeping.

Kununurra is surrounded by large farms of melons, mangoes, sugar cane and lots of other crops. The Barra Barra mango and paw paw farm provided a beautiful spot for lunch by the lagoon filled with lilies and to our surprise a water python. We drove through some of the farms and saw the amazing structure of the irrigation in the area. There are canals of water at the edge of the paddock and tubes that pump the water the length of the rows. There is also a paddle wheel set up that regulates where the water goes.

We stopped at Ivanhoe Crossing which is the old river crossing of the Ord River before the Ord River scheme was established. The river was flowing too quickly to be able to cross. We tasted the local rum at Hoochery Rum Distillery and managed to get to Kelly’s Knob lookout at sunset and enjoyed the beautiful view of the Kununurra area and its farms.

We decided to take the 4WD track to Wyndham and started with crossing Valentine Springs which was a lovely fishing and camping spot. Even though there are a lot of salt water crocodiles, people still fish!!!! We then drove to the other side of Ivanhoe crossing where we were yesterday.

The river looked quite different from the other side. Ivanhoe crossing was the original road to Ivanhoe Station which was one of the original Durack properties. We then continued along the track and took the turn off to Middle springs which was very beautiful and then on to Black Rock Falls which didn’t have any water in it this far into the dry. Our next stop was lunch at the most magic bird sanctuary. It was Parry’ Lagoon Nature Reserve and the hide on the Lagoon made it possible to watch the birds closely in their environment. It was a magic spot.

We stopped off at the Afghan Cemetery and were amused to see that the graves were large because when the camel drivers died they were buried with their head camel!!!

We continued on to Wyndham which is pretty much a dead town now since the building of Kununurra in 1961 and the closing of the meat works at Wyndham. The best spot in Wyndham is the 5 rivers lookout where the Pentacost, Durack, King, Forest and Ord Rivers all enter the sea. It is a superb sight. They are all mighty rivers.

We drove down to look at Wyndham Port and then onto the Crocodile farm which is now under administration. The huge Aboriginal Dreamtime Statues are majestic and then we headed to see the Prison Boab Tree along the King River Road. What a great drive and the road and scenery were great.
Somehow we managed to take a wrong turn and what was supposed to be a short cut to the Gibb River Road and back to Kununurra ended up on a long explore along a beautiful 4WD track with the Pentacost River on our right and the Cockburn Range on our left. We didn’t get home until after dark at about 7:30pm. The track was quite difficult and we were fortunate enough to come across a young local who told us how to get to the Gibb River Rd. It was funny in retrospect and a great drive.


We left Timber Creek to go to Limestone Gorge -
but oh oh it was closed!


So back to Timber Creek


And on to the old Timber Creek police station


Old Timber Creek police station - but it was closed too.


So we looked around outside


Spent a minute behind the old gaol doors


We went on to Police Point Lookout - the Victoria River


Police Point Lookout - the Victoria River


Monument to Nackeroos


Monument to Nackeroos


The Victoria River dominates this region


Looking down at Timber Creek from Lookout Hill


Timber Creek Caravan Park in the left background


Leith and Steve take in the panoramic view


The moon, the bush and our rigs


Wattle trees make a wonderful arch


Coming down the Lookout - Victoria River


Bradshaw Bridge near Timber Creek


End of Bradshaw Bridge - a Defence Firing Range - no access


No vehicles other than military are allowed on Bradshaw Bridge


We looked for crocodiles on the Victoria River but saw none


Our next stop was Gregory's Tree


Marked in 1856 - how old is this Boab Tree?


Look at the copperplate letter style - amazing


Information on Augustus Gregory - 1


Information on Augustus Gregory - 2


Information on Augustus Gregory - 3


Information on Augustus Gregory - 4


Gregory's Boab Tree and Victoria River in background


We finally leave the Northern Territory


And arrive in Western Australia


No fruit or vegetables or honey are allowed into WA


Over 260 diseases exist but WA does not have 160 of them


Our first stop in WA - Lake Argyle


The dam wall at Lake Argyle


Lake Argyle


Lake Argyle - The views here are breathtaking


We all enjoyed the fantastic views of Lake Argyle


The Lake Argyle dam wall


William McMahon was Prime Minister when this Dam was started


Lake Argyle Dam Wall and Hydro intake structure


Information on the Ord River Dam


Ord River Hydro Power Station and dam wall


Ord River Gorge (other side of Dam)


Ord River Dam and Lake Argyle


Hydro intake structure - Lake Argyle


Information on the Ord River Dam wall


Dead Horse Spring - Lake Argyle


Sunset on Lake Argyle from Pannikin Sunset Lookout


Lake Argyle from Pannikin Sunset Lookout


Lake Argyle from Pannikin Sunset Lookout


Lake Argyle from Pannikin Sunset Lookout


Carol at Pannikin Sunset Lookout - a 4WD only track


We visited the Durack Homestead at Lake Argyle


Gravestones were moved here but not the bodies


Patsy Duracks Gravestone


Grave of Aboriginal "Pumpkin" from "Kings in Grass Castles"


Another Durack memorial at the Homestead


Several Bower birds have their nests at the Durack Homestead


Bower Bird Nest - Durack Homestead


Front entrance - Durack Homestead


Durack Homestead was moved stone by stone to this site


Such a simple Homestead for such a celebrated family - Duracks


Aussie bush flower

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We left the Durack Homestead remembering our previous visit


Steve, Leith, Carol, Mike took a sunset cruise on Lake Argyle
Don, our skipper was full of interesting information


On the water - Lake Argyle


Rock Wallabies at Lake Argyle


Rock Wallaby with Joey in her pouch at Lake Argyle


Male Rock Wallaby - Lake Argyle


Beautiful Lake Argyle


What a big fresh water crocodile - Lake Argyle


Look, another huge freshie - Lake Argyle


Sun is going down on Lake Argyle


Sun setting - Lake Argyle WA


See the crocodile shape in the rock


Sun has set - the lilac colours were delicious


Today we head to Kununarra - 70km from Lake Argyle


After a peaceful night we decided to explore Kununurra


Irrigation ditches everywhere ensured excellent water for crops


The Ord River Irrigation Scheme is just fantastic


Small turbine feeds just the right amount of water into canal


Our next stop - BarraBarra for lunch


Look at the soft pink colours of this plant's flowers


Carol says its either an orchid or hybiscus


Very pleasant - BarraBarra


Beautiful pond and fountain where we sat out for lunch


Water Lilies in the BarraBarra pond


Then there was this snake in the BarraBarra pond


Groomed orchard as we left BarraBarra in Kununurra


Our next stop was Ivanhoe Crossing


This was the old road from Kununurra to Wyndham


Ivanhoe Crossing


All these Telegraph poles were leaning to the left


Our next stop was Hoochery Rum Distillery


We tried a few of the rums


Above the bar - three nudes and Boab tree painting


The Cane Royal was our favourite Hoochery Rum


All rum starts as a base spirit - brrrr


This is one of the sheds at Hoochery


The gentle look and colour of this bush flower

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This is the only thing holding up the whole cave structure


Carol in Aboriginal Rock Art cave near Kununurra

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Carol and I staggered around looking for this rock art

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Aboriginal Rock Art - Kununurra Cave

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Sun setting light make the Rock Art cave glow -
We had dragged ourselves several kilometres to find this cave

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Sun setting near Aboriginal Rock Art - Kununurra Cave site

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Sun is setting and we have to get out of here


Final stop for the day was Kelly's Knob - Kununurra


View of Kununurra from Kelly's Knob


We couldn't get to the Telstra Tower because gates were shut


But the view from Kelly's Knob was beautiful


Steve at Kelly's Knob


Another undergrowth burn-off at Kununurra


View of sunset from Kelly's Knob - Kununurra


Sunset lighting on hill near Kelly's Knob


Boab trees are so friendly and varied


Elizabeth Durack designed this monument at the Ord River Bridge


See the crocodile resting in the foreground - Ord River


All this fresh Ord River water gushing out to sea - criminal


Mosaic designed by Elizabeth Durack


Sign at Ivanhoe's Crossing


This is Ivanhoe Crossing from the other side


The smooth rocks bear witness to torrents of water flowing


This Pelican was determined to get its fish dinner

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View of pelican at Ivanhoe's Crossing

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View of Ivanhoe's Crossing


Our next stop was Middle Spring


Information board on Middle Springs


This was a 4WD track


Discussion whether Mike should cross waterway at Middle Spring


Steve and Leith decided to make the crossing to Middle Spring


Middle Spring and reflection


Rippled reflection - Middle Springs


Colour on this bush flower was vibrant red

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Our next stop on this 4WD track was Black Rock


Black Rock


Cool, darkish, butterflies everywhere - Black Rock


Fascinating tree shapes - Black Rock


On to Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve


Information on Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve


Creek at Parry Lagoons


Information on Parry Lagoons


History of Parry Lagoons


Finally we found Telegraph Hill at Parry Lagoons


This was the what remains of the telegraph station


Views of Parry Lagoons from Telegraph Hill


Views of Parry Lagoons from Telegraph Hill


Boabs at Telegraph Hill


Information on Boabs at Telegraph Hill


Boabs at Telegraph Hill


Pied Heron


Parry Lagoons


Darter drying at Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons - just beautiful


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons


Parry Lagoons - a haven for water birds


Darter drying at Parry Lagoons


We arrived at Wyndham


First stop in Wyndham - the Afghan Cemetery


Afghan Camel drivers and their camels buried together


The Big Crocodile - Wyndham


Look how big he is next to Carol


Aboriginal Humpy made of Paper Bark


Look at this rock


On to the Five Rivers Lookout on top of the Bastion


View right from Five Rivers Lookout


Durack and Pentecost Rivers-left view from Five Rivers Lookout


Pentacost, Durack, Forrest, Ord and King Rivers all meet here


Mike and Carol at Five Rivers Lookout - Wyndham


Information Boards on Wyndham


View of the valley behind the Bastion - Wyndham


Wyndham Port


Wyndham Town Hotel - sadly the town is dead


The rock formation and pool as we drove out of Wyndham


Was really unusual


Information on Moochalabra Dam


Moochalabra Dam


Oh no - another Aboriginal Art Site


Is it old art or new grafitti


Leith, Steve and Carol at Aboriginal Art Site near Moochalabra


First the Prison Boab then the 4WD track home


Ah, another beautiful Boab Tree - the Prison Boab Tree


They kept prisoners inside this Boab - Yep it's big enough for a few big blokes like Mike


Spectacular views of the Cockburn Ranges


The sun setting on the Cockburn Ranges was great

Sunday, June 18, 2006

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 10 June to Friday 16 June

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006

Saturday 10 June to Friday 16 June

Jabiru National Park to Timber Creek

Blog 7

A dawn cruise on Yellow Water is a spectacular way to start the day. Yellow Water is a wetland in Kakadu National Park.

We saw lots of crocodiles and a great variety of birds and in huge numbers that included sea eagles building a nest that they had stolen from Whistling Kites, Jabirus in their nest high up in the tree large numbers of Magpie Geese also in the trees, beautiful Azure Kingfishers, Egrets, Herons, Ibis, Brolga, Pelicans whistling ducks and many more the names of which I don’t know.

The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre gave a great history of the local people, the Bininj. The Bininj call anyone who is non-aboriginal Balanga. It described their complex family system, too complex to try and restate. Our last stop for the day was the Nourlangie rock area has aboriginal paintings and a lookout.

We continued our journey in Kadadu National park and drove to the south end of the park to Gungurul where we walked to a branch of the South Alligator River and up a moderate climb to a lookout with views over the South Alligator River Valley.

Bukbukluk Lookout was next with views of the old Goodparla Station which none of us could see but the view over the valley and the escarpment was beautiful.

After collecting firewood along the way we camped at the Gunlom Camping area. The Gunlom plunge pool and waterfall were beautiful and even though the walk to the top of the waterfall was very steep the view from the top was worth it. Dinner around the campfire was a great way to end the day.

We decided to try our hand at making damper which tasted great especially with butter and jam!!! After the damper we needed to walk off the calories so the steep and rocky Boulder Creek walk to Yurmikmik was just what we needed.

We headed back to Katherine and said good-bye to our friends Rhonda and John who were heading back to Townsville for the birth of their grandchild while we continue to head west.

Our next stop along the Savannah Way was Victoria River which has beautiful escarpments and runs through Gregory National Park. We walked to the 312m high lookout and enjoyed the panoramic views. Our camp stop for the night was the Timber Creek Roadhouse where they fed the fresh water crocodiles in the river.


Its 6:30am Saturday morning and we are going to enjoy a cruise on Yellow Water


Yellow Water is a wonderful wetland in Cooinda - Kakadu


Pre-dawn as we set of to enjoy two hours of cruising


Oh what a wonderful morning


Still no sunrise but the Jabiru is out and feeding


Jabiru in flight - magnificent


Darter Bird calling - dawn at Yellow Water


Juvenile Nankeen Night Heron


Suns up and birds abound at Yellow Water NT


Hundreds of Magpie Geese


Absolutely beautiful Azure Kingfisher


Whistling Kite


Sea Eagle - Yellow Water NT


Magpie Goose gets away from the flock on the ground


Yellow Water feeds from South Alligator River


Pandanas - very important plant for Aboriginals


Look at the size of the branch being delivered by the Sea Eagle


Jabiru in flight - looks like an old model airplane


Jabiru carrying nesting material to its nest


Sea Eagle on nest - Yellow Water NT


Great Heron


Yellow Water - Northern Territory


Lillies were just beautiful at Yellow Water


Every fourth canine grows outside the jaw


Croc soaking up the sun - mouth open to help cool its brain


How ferocious is this to look at and contemplate - Never smile at a crocodile...


Back at the dock - its been a great two hour cruise


Water Lilly - so delicate and beautiful close up


White water lilly - Yellow Water NT


Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre


Rock showing the different seasons in Kakadu


Then we went on a 2km bush walk to nowhere


Bush flowers - so pretty


Screw trunk on Pandanas


Nature so perfect in form


On we went through the bush in one big loop walk


Nourlangie Rock - Kakadu National Park NT


Lots of Aboriginal art here at Anbangbang Gallery - Nourlangie


Season Calendar


Which rocks make which coloured ochres


Wallaby with joey in pouch on the track


Information on Anbangbang rock art

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This aboriginal art is quite new but so good to look at


Great colours on this Forest Kingfisher


Pair of Forest Kingfisher at Nourlangie Rock - Kakadu


Information on Namanjolg's Feather


Can you see Namanjolg's Feather on Nourlangie Rock?


Kapokflowers and Nourlangie Rock


Namarrgon - Lightening Man Information


Namarrgon - Lightening Man on Escarpment in background


Steve and John going to attempt to climb to top of Nourlangie


Namanjolg, Namarrgon and Barrginj, Namanjolg's wife


Aboriginies like to dance


So they dance - Nourlangie Rock NT


Walkways like this lead to rock art galleries - Nourlangie

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Kangaroo and Aboriginal Hunter with Woomera and spear


Rock Wallaby in red ochre


20000 to 6000 years ago


6000 to 2000 years ago


2000 years to present time


Okay we are on our way - Gungurul Walk


Lots of sand and amazingly not a lot of water left


Looking upstream-branch of the South Alligator River - Gungurul


John checking for crocs - South Alligator River - Gungurul


Lets climb to the top of the Gungurul lookout


This was one steep walk


Carol at the cairn at the top of Gungurul - see the highway?


Lets go back - Gungurul Lookout


Our three Bushtrackers at the base of the Gungurul track


After Gungurul we went to the Bukbukluk Lookout


The Bukbukluk lookout


Love this bush flower - Bukbukluk

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And now 39km of corrugated dirt track to make Gunlom


Lots of streams and creeks like this on the road to Gunlom


Over another stream and more corrugated dirt on the way


We arrived at Gunlom and decided to do the Lookout walk


First we will go to the plunge pool at Gunlom


Gunlom is in Jawoyn (Aboriginal) Country


Just beautiful - Gunlom plunge pool


This is magnificent Gunlom Falls and plunge pool


Carol testing the water at Gunlom plunge pool


The Gunlom plunge pool is surrounded by beach sand


The walk to the top of Gunlom is steep and strenuous


The track is marked like this - just follow the orange markers


A quarter of the way up and we can look down on the plunge pool


Its a strenuous walk but Carol handles it with ease


Our caravans are down there in the middle right


Now we are near the top of the Gunlom Lookout walk


And finally we can see the top of the waterfall


Crystal clear pools as the water rushes towards the waterfall


The colours are just fantastic


Rock carved and smoothed by water at the top of Gunlom


Just stunning


Carol and Mike at the top of Gunlom waterfall


Where ever you turn - its just breathtaking


Top of Gunlom Waterfall


Leith and Mike - top of Gunlom Lookout walk


Top part of the Gunlom waterfall


Carol right in the middle of the top of the Gunlom waterfall


The water was cool and refreshing as it ran over the waterfall


You can see the plunge pool 200metres below the top of Gunlom


Carol and Leith enjoying the top of Gunlom Falls


This American tourist on the edge of Gunlom Falls - nuts!!!


Steve enjoyed the cool water at the top of Gunlom


The view as we descended Gunlom Lookout walk


First thing today - Murrill Billabong Walk


No fishing - in the wet the water height is top of the trees


Murrill Billabong - just a water hole


Interesting Tree Trunk - can you see the face in profile? Murrill Billabong


Murrill Billabong


Looking back at Gunlom from the billabong - see the falls


Steve, Carol, Leith and Rhonda on our way back from Murrill


The track from Murrill Billabong to Gunlom


Back from Murrill Billabong and its time for damper and coffee


Rhonda and Leith bring the ingredients


John and Rhonda look on as Carol prepares damper mix


The damper mix goes into the dutch oven and put on the fire


Thirty minutes later - perfect damper


Next stop - Yurmikmik - and another trek


Carol on the suspension bridge on our way to Boulder Creek


Hardy yet delicate - aussie bush flower - Yurmikmik

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This was the track to Boulder Creek - a rugged rock climb


Reflection of John at Boulder Creek


Carol, Leith and John above Boulder Creek


Carol, Leith and John decide to go on to Motor Car Creek Falls


From Yurmikmik we overnighted at Mary River Roadhouse


Its time to say goodbye at Katherine to John and Rhonda


They are heading home to Townsville, we are going to Broome


Steve, Leith, Carol, Mike's next stop- Victoria River Roadhouse


Here we are 200km west of Katherine and caravans everywhere


Imagine the water was above Carols head just 6 weeks ago


Okay lets do it - the Escarpment Lookout Walk


Information Board - Gregory National Park Escarpment Walk


Steve, Carol and Leith - smile for Mike's camera


The rock shapes as we climbed the Escarpment


Carol rests as we keep climbing


The view was breathtaking


Opposite Escarpment, the highway and the Victoria River


And still we climb towards the top of the escarpment


And finally we reached the end of the Escarpment walk


Gregory National Park Escarpment Walk - the view was worth the climb


This was a Frenchman who also climbed to the top


Steve, Leith and Carol - celebrating the trek to the top


Wattle on top of Gregory National Park Escarpment


Carol and Mike as we headed down from the top of the Escarpment


Steve leading us down from the top of the Escarpment


And there on the road below are our two Bushtracker Caravans


On the road to Timber Creek there was this monument


Bronco Panel Monument to the Duracks


Timber Creek


We arrived at Timber Creek - crocs are fed at 5:00pm


This river is home to fresh water crocodiles


Look at the teeth on this fresh water crocodile - it knows food is coming


You would not want to get bitten by this freshie


Those teeth are razor sharp and the speed with which they snap

Sunday, June 11, 2006

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 3 June to Friday 9 June

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006

Saturday 3 June to Friday 9 June

Darwin to Jabiru National Park

Blog 6

We had dinner on the wharf in for our last night in Darwin and it was a beautiful sunset.

On our way to Jabiru in Kakadu National Park we stopped for a walk on a suspension bridge at Mary River. As we continued we could see that there was obviously a lot of damage from Cyclone Monica with lots of trees down everywhere and still a lot of water around. This is why the Aborigines call this the knock down season. There was a lot of smoke in the air over Jabiru due to the burning off that the Aborigines carry out at the beginning of every dry

One of the must do sites in Kakadu is Ubirr which is famous for its rock art. The ranger Russell was a local aboriginal and his stories and explanations of the rock art were fantastic. He explained about the art and the kinship system. We saw the Main Art Gallery, The Rainbow Serpent and then the Lookout which overlooked the plains and the escarpment. The day was beautiful and the lookout was superb.

We stopped for lunch at Cahill Crossing and ate under the shade of a big tree by the East Alligator River. We could only drive across the Cahill Crossing into Arnhem Land but had to drive back again as a permit is needed to enter Arnhem Land.

We took a cruise on the East Alligator River which is on the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land and is part of Kakadu. Our Aboriginal guide, Roman explained the use of the plants, how they hunt and live and the history of the land and rocks. The Paper bark trees are used for many things. The bark is used to sleep on as it is soft and keeps you dry and also keeps the insects away. It is also used as an antiseptic for wounds. The bark is bound to the wound with the inside of the bark on the wound. They also use the trunks to build canoes, the bark to wrap their fish in and cook it and the leaves of different paperbark trees as herbs in their cooking.

They use the yellow flowers of the Beach Hibiscus once they have fallen off the tree and turned maroon to cure gastric. The wood of the Kapok Tree is very buoyant and is used for fishing spears. It is also used for their fire sticks. They use bamboo stems for spears and iron bark for spear heads. The string from the Kapok tree is used to tie things together and Pandanus palm leaves are woven baskets. When the bark and leaves of the fresh water mangrove are ground into a pulp and placed into a pond or lagoon the fish are starved of oxygen and just float to the surface so they can just be picked out of the water. When they have collected all the fish they want they remove the pulp, stir up the water to re-oxygenate the water and the fish revive.

So many of the wonderful things to see were still inaccessible by road so we took a Scenic Flight to Jim Jim Falls, Twin Falls, Double Falls and over the uranium Ranger Mine, the escarpment and Arnhem Land. It was easy to see the path of Cyclone Monica the downed trees looked like someone had thrown a box of matches down.

Mike, John and I decided to do a guided tour into Arnhem Land which allowed us to go to and see places that we otherwise were forbidden to see.

We crossed the East Alligator River at Cahills Crossing and then drove another 70km or so to the community of Oenpelli. There are about 1000 people living in this community and it had the usual Arts Centre.

We had stopped on the way at a wetland to look out on the landscape. It is quite different from Kakadu National and is known as the stone country.

Our Aboriginal guide was Wilfred and his son Billy Boy who were both barefoot. It is amazing how they manage to walk on the terrain where we went. We had trouble in our walking shoes. He was very knowledgeable about his stories and would not answer questions that did not relate to his stories out of respect to the other peoples stories.

He took us to painting sites, burial sites, a male initiation site and we had explanations of all these things. We had morning tea of tea and biscuits at the top of the cliff in a most spectacular place. The scenery and the feeling of being there is indescribable.


Its Carols birthday tomorrow so we all went to dinner - Darwin Wharf


Happy Birthday Carol - you look beautiful


Carol and Mike - celebrating Carol's birthday


John, Rhonda, Steve Carol and Leith - Happy Birthday Carol


Rhonda with ice cream


John loves ice creams


Delicate Leith with her birthday ice cream


No holding back Steve either


And finally the birthday girl Carol with her favourite - Corneto


This is a suspension bridge at Mary River NT


We spent half an hour finding this suspension bridge at Mary River NT


Leith and Steve on the Mary River Suspension Bridge


And this wonderful waterway


With the occassional water lily - just beautiful


The gate to Kakadu


Kakadu - a World Heritage area


We all stopped to take photos as we entered Kakadu


Kakadu is Aboriginal Land


And we arrive at Jabiru in Kakadu National Park


We set up our new front shade cloth and settled into Jabiru


Lots of trees were downed by Cyclone Monica - The Aborigines call this "Knock 'em down season"


Sunset at the Jabiru Caravan Park


This morning we had to be at Ubirr for a 9:00am Ranger talk


Ubirr is a fantastic site for Aboriginal rock art

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Sandstone eroded rocks were magnificent


Sand palms and gums everywhere


Rhonda, Carol and John on the path in Ubirr


Ubirr Rock Art - Hands have meaning, see the Turtle

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Russell - the Ranger telling us about this Ubirr Rock Art

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These pot holes were 1000s of years old - grinding paint ochres


Barramundi and Long Neck Turtles- Ubirr Rock Art

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This is a Tasmanian Tiger - Ubirr Rock Art

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Information on the Rainbow Serpent - Ubirr


The Ubirr Rainbow Serpent


Leith, Steve, John, Rhonda and Carol listening to Ranger Talk


Carol at Ubirr - Arnhem Land escarpment in background


Flood plains at Ubirr NT


View of the flood plains at Ubirr


Flood plains from higher lever - Ubirr


Carol at Ubirr Lookout


John at Ubirr Lookout


Mike and Carol - Arnhem Land Escarpment in background


Rock formations were fascinating - Ubirr


Ubirr Rock Art - Long Neck Turtle

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Information about Namarrgarn sisters


Namarrgarn sisters - Ubirr Rock Art

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Information on Rock Art - Laws to Live by

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Laws to live by - Ubirr Rock Art

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Sand Palms and Pandanas - Ubirr Rock Art Site


White Gum - - Ubirr Rock Art Site


Ubirr Rock Art

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Layout of Ubirr Rock Art and lookout sites

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Elders of Ubirr - covered because he/she died


After Ubirr we stopped for lunch at Cahill's Crossing


East Alligator River downstream from Cahill's Crossing


Cahill's Crossing - the only road into Arnhem Land


We are going to sneak into Arnhem Land


So we cross East Alligator River at Cahill's Crossing


East Alligator is full of crocodiles - not alligators


Here we are in Arnhem Land about to cross back into Kakadu


This is Arnhem Land looking East towards Oenpelli


Carol and Mike took the Guluyambi Cruise up the East Alligator


East Alligator River is salt water here but becomes fresh water


Moving upstream on the East Alligator River


A medium sized crocodile sunning on the bank of the river


Beautiful but so dangerous - lots of crocodiles


We will pull in here to learn some aboriginal culture


Mike looking upstream on the East Alligator River - Arnhem Land


This is the view - the river is now fresh water


And looking downstream the river is salt water


Eroded rocks look like carved birds heads


Carol with Natalie - In charge of Crocodile matters (traditional owner)


The East Alligator River looks so peaceful


Roman (Aboriginal Guide) teaching Aboriginal punishment to us


Let me show you how to throw a spear with a woomera


We put the spear into the woomera like this


And throw the spear like this


And this woomera extends how far the spear will go


Here we are in Arnhem Land looking at Kakadu (right)


Time to head home on the East Alligator River


Can you imagine this river was higher than the right rocks


just nine weeks ago (April 2006)


Look at that rock formation


I told you there were lots of crocodiles here


Cyclone Monica came through here


and flattened these trees like they were match sticks


Look at the angle of these trees to the river


Jabiru AIr Terminal - basically a tin shed


We are at Jabiru (Ranger) Airport -ready for a trip over Kakadu


This is our plane - a one hour sunset flight over Kakadu coming up


As we took off we saw the Ranger Uranium Mine


Incredible a Uranium mine in the Kakadu National Park


This is our Caravan Park in Jabiru


This is the Gagadju Hotel in Jabiru


Gagadju Hotel in Jabiru shape of a crocodile


Kakadu plains heading south


This is the airstrip in Kakadu used in movie Crocodile Dundee


Nourlangie Rock - Kakadu National Park


Nourlangie Rock (front) and Kakadu looking North


Rock Formations and Gorges from the air were fantastic


View of Death Adder Creek from our Scenic Flight Cessna


These fires are deliberately lit to burn off undergrowth


Views of Escarpment from our Scenic Flight Cessna


Approaching Jim Jim Falls


Huge - Jim Jim Falls


Views of Kakadu and Arnhem Land from our Scenic Flight Cessna


Twin Falls - Kakadu National Park


Small Double Fall from the air


Another view of small waterfall in Kakadu National Park


Twin Falls


Kakadu National Park


Jim Jim Falls - Kakadu National Park


Top of Jim Jim Falls - Kakadu National Park


Last fly over Jim Jim Falls - Kakadu National Park


Kakadu National Park


Kakadu National Park


One shot as we flew past Double Falls


Stoney Country - Arnhem Land


Stoney Country - Arnhem Land


Flying along the Arnhem Land Escarpment


Flying along the Arnhem Land Escarpment


Arnhem Land Escarpment


Arnhem Land Escarpment


Lightening Man - Flying along the Arnhem Land Escarpment


Flying along the Arnhem Land Escarpment


Flying along the Arnhem Land Escarpment


Kakadu - they burn off undergrowth sections starting at 3:00pm


Red sunset caused by smoke from burn-offs below


Sacred Aboriginal Site


ERA Ranger Uranium Mine


Home at last - what a fantastic sunset flight over Kakadu


It's Friday and we are off to visit Arnhem Land for the day


Our first stop was this wetland plain in Arnhem Land


The landscape is very different in Arnhem Land


We were a party of five plus guide Michael


Little Red Backed Kingfisher sitting in a Kapok Tree


We are off to Oenpelli and Injalak Art Centre


Injalak Arts and Crafts in Oenpelli - Arnhem Land


Injalak Arts and Crafts in Oenpelli - Arnhem Land


Billy Boy and his Mum


Great Aboriginal Face - look at his eyes


We are climbing Long Tom to look at rock art and burial sites


Wilfred stopped to let us old folk catch breath as we climb


The light was perfect for this shot of Wilfred our guide and Billy Boy


Carol finds the climb a breeze


Half way up - now look at Magpie Geese Hill


Okay lets check out the rock art here

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Long neck turtle and snake below


Barramundi and other fish


The quantity of rock art is incredible

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Wilfred explaining the importance of the rock art

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Do I see a spaceman amongst this very old artwork


Wilfred showing us Lightening Man rock artcomplete with axes on knees


Hunting implements and animal bones in cave


This is a bad, evil spirit


Aborigines see this and wll not go in the direction of the bad


John and Carol in serious contemplation - bad, evil spirit hmmm


Lightening Man painted on roof of small cave


Still climbing up Long Tom Dreaming Hill


Fish drawings means food information for Aboriginals


This painted hand is post contact period - european glove


Old boat drawing - single sail


These pots were ground over many centuries - food, paint, seeds


Walk around a corner and you see more rock art

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Arnhem Land Rock Art

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Wilfred expains more rock art to our group

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Is that another spaceman below ledge?


We squeezed through gaps as we climbed up the hill


And Wilfred walked us up here bare footed


Michael our white guide had set up morning tea here


We are on the very edge of the ledge - spectacular views


Michael serving morning tea - Oenpelli, Arnhem Land


Carol enjoying tea as here feet dangle over the ledge


Magpie Geese Dreaming from top of Long Top


These are the views we enjoyed from the top of Long Tom


Off again through another crevise on Long Tom


Carol has no trouble slipping through here


This is the Aboriginal Creation Mother with dilli bags


Billy Boy was very well behaved


Oenpelli from the top of Long Tom Dreaming Hill


Okay its time to visit a burial site, no photos


And down we go, around the hill we all go


Past rocks like this


and trees growing on next to nothing


And as we hit the bottom, Billy Boy is fast asleep, bye Wilfred


We were on top of this - Long Tom viewed from Oenpelli


Next stop - Mike our guide stopped at this site


Hand and foot rock art - Arnhem Land

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The hooked finger means Kangaroo


Contact period 3 mast ship and european glove


Men's Initiation site - warning to women-come here get speared


This is Secret Mens Business - Initiation drawing


Michael explaining Men's Initiation rite


This is the view from the Initiation area


Carol should not be here -they would kill women for coming here


This is a huge Rock some 70 metres high


Young men would be trained here, learn how to hunt, fight, etc


They would have to be able to throw a spear up into the top


Rocks take on fascinating shapes


This upside down hand means burial site


Aboriginal Rock Art - Arnhem Land

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Bad spirits - Aboriginal Rock Art - Arnhem Land

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Aboriginal would have lived hereand slept in this hole


Another bad spirit drawing


This is a woman giving birth


Someone bad lived here, ground food here, slept here

Sunday, June 04, 2006

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 27 May to Friday 2 June

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006

Saturday 27 May to Friday 2 June

Darwin

Blog 5

We spent a day at Bathurst Island which is one of the Tiwi Islands just a 30 minute flight, on a small plane, north off the coast of Darwin. We had 2 local guides for the day and a bus driver. You can’t get onto the island unless you are on a tour and even then you need a permit. It was a great day and we learnt about their history, dreaming, art and culture including their 4 skin colours and their strict rules for marriage and interacting with the opposite sex. We saw a smoking ceremony and watched their dancing which is a really important part of their lives. In true fashion we bought a few bits and pieces mainly because it was such a nice day. They are totally separate from the Australian Aborigines and originally their only association with the mainland was in war. The people are very friendly, still strong in their culture and still live with a lot of their traditional ways including the food they catch and eat.

Over the next few days we decided to explore the outer areas of Darwin.

Howard Springs is a beautiful national park with lakes containing LOTS of fish including large barramundi, yellow faced turtles and a variety of other fish whose names I can’t remember. We walked through the lovely cool rainforest which followed along the river for most of the walk. We then headed off along the Arnhem Land Highway with its many mango and banana plantations along the way, to the wetlands of Fogg Dam.

There were lots of water birds including magpie geese, little egrets, white faced herons, white necked herons, pied herons, radjah shelduck, royal Spoonbills, Jabiru. We also saw 2 water monitor lizards trying to hide amongst the grasses The wet lands were beautiful and spread over a large area. They have the greatest density of snakes (water pythons) in the world.

The next stop was the Wetlands Visitor Centre on Beatrice Hill which gave a great history/explanation of the wetlands and had a tower from which there was a great view of the area.

We just couldn’t resist the crocodile feeding cruise on the Adelaide River which has about 3500 crocodiles in that area. Towards the end of the cruise they also feed some of the birds in the area mainly black kites and whistling kites. It is all amazing to see.

Our exploring continued as we headed down the Stuart Highway and turned right, (west) towards Dundee Beach which is on the Timor Sea. It was an unsealed road but a very good road. Dundee Beach was beautiful and isolated and we were the only ones there. We stopped for morning tea and just soaked up the beautiful scenery including the hermit crabs. We are always vigilant for snakes, crocodiles and never go swimming in the sea because of the boxed jelly fish!!!!

Next we headed off to Dundee Lodge which is a little further north on the coastline and is another idyllic spot and a fisherman’s dream.

We then headed down some more dirt roads to Crab Claw Island which is not really an island but rather a peninsula, in Bynoe Harbour.

Our last stop for that day was Mandorah on the Cox Peninsula. Mandorah is a small place which is ferry ride from Darwin across the bay or as we did it hours to drive around to.

It was time to explore some of the 4WD tracks around Darwin so we headed off with our trusty GPS system so that we could always get back home if we got lost. We headed north past Howard Springs and then took the Gun Point Rd to Gun Point. It was a perfect spot for morning tea beside the river flowing into the Beagle Gulf. While we were sitting there one of the fishermen caught a large mud crab in the river and little birds had a nest in the sand and were busy bring food to their babies that we could hear chirping!!! I tried to identify the birds but they refused to be still long enough for me to get a good view. Everywhere that we stop there are mangroves and we are ever vigilant for crocodiles and snakes. We then headed north, along a VERY narrow track with a creek crossing, to Fright Point which is at the top of a little peninsula. When we got to Fright Point through isolated country other people were camping and fishing there. We stayed for lunch and then headed home with the help of our GPS.



Today we are off to the Tiwi Islands for the day


Pilot checks our Caravan aircraft


Quite a roomy little plane - and apart from Mike, all women


This is our first look at Bathurst Island - very marsh looking


And here we are 30 min out of Darwin - arriving Bathurst Island


Carol leaves the Caravan aeroplane


This is the arrival lounge on Bathurst Island


Tiwi Island art abounds everywhere


Our Tiwi Island Tour bus


Carol with part of our group outside Patkijiyali Museum


Bishop Gsell - an Alsace Catholic Priest - the Tiwi Missionary


Tiwi Seasons Chart


All these figures are from the Tiwi Dreamtime


Mother Earth gave light (Sun and the Moon) to her children
These sketches were just fantastic


Mother earth had three children - made the lakes and waterholes


Dreamtime - three Evil spirits who Mother Earth destroyed


Wild pig just meandering across the road on Bathurst Island


First Art Centre we visited on Bathurst Island


This young lady was just so focussed on what she was painting


Spears, throwing sticks and Water Buffalo skull and horns


Pelican made out of ironwood at Art Centre - Bathurst Island


Carol in earnest discussion with Freddy - Tiwi Island guide


JJ's Restaurant kitchen


Ken painting a shell


Carol watching Ken painting shell which Mike wants to buy


This lady is 64 years old - - Bathurst Island


The face of this Tiwi lady was interesting


Thaddeus preparing for dance show


Tiwi ladies about to bless us with ironwood leaves and smoke


Iron wood leaves and smoke removes evil spirits


This mans face is a Shark - his family symbol


Dancing traditional Tiwi Dance - Bathurst Island


These Tiwi women were fantastic for their age


Freddy and Desmond dancing together


Carol and Mike with Tiwi Island Tour guides


Freddy and son Desmond - precious


Tiwi Design and Art - the biggest art centre in the Tiwi's


This man is the head of Tiwi Art and Design


Tiwi Design and Art - one of three buildings


Wallaby killed yesterday - now on the bar-b-que for lunch


This is the Tiwi Cathederal on Bathurst Island


Main altar - Tiwi Cathederal on Bathurst Island


Inside Tiwi Cathederal on Bathurst Island


Thaddeus telling us about the Catholic Missionary history


Pelican - Tiwi Cathederal on Bathurst Island

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Tiwi Cathederal on Bathurst Island


Radio Relay station told Darwin of impending Japanese Air raid


Waterhole on Tiwi Island where we had lunch


Water Monitor Lizard hiding from Mike - Tiwi Islands


Thaddeus explaining trees and medicine derivitives to our group


Cycad nuts are toxic - tree is as old as the dinosaurs


Cycad Tree trunk - fantastic patterns


Carol tests the waterhole temperature


Okay feet in water - lets chat girls


This is burial mound of deceased persons possessions - Tiwi


One of the roads we drove down on Bathurst Island


Womens Toilet at Bathurst Airport - burning off ground fuel


Howard Springs - NT


We took the 1.8km loop walking track around Howard Springs


Spiral growth of Pandanas


Howard Springs in 1930


Fogg Dam Conservation Wetlands - 50km south east of Darwin


Pied Heron in Fogg Dam wetlands


Great Egret in Fogg Dam wetlands


Radjah Shelduck and Little Egrets


Royal Spoonbill


Fantastic collection of birds in Fogg Dam wetlands


Kormorants drying out in Pandanas on the edge of Fogg Dam


The Fogg Dam Wetlands - fantastic colours


The Fogg Dam Wetlands - fantastic colours


Looking at the Fogg Dam wall and viewing blind on the right


Wetlands, water lillies and birds - Fogg Dam


Looking over the flat Fogg Dam Wetlands flood plains


Mike disturbed these Pied Herons sunning at Fog Dam NT


And they all took to the sky


Pied Herons took to the tree tops


This is the dam wall - Fogg Dam NT


Water Monitor Lizard at Fogg Dam Wetlands


Water Monitor Lizard at Fogg Dam Wetlands


Jabiru (aka Black Neck Stork) at Fogg Dam Wetlands


Water Lillies - Fogg Dam NT


They call Beatrice Hill "Window on the Wetlands"


View of Wetlands and flood plains from Beatrice Hill


Crocodile greets us at Adelaide River Boat Tour


This is the tour boat - one and a half hour cruise coming up


The Adelaide River - Northern Territory


You really have to see these monsters to appreciate this


Huge salt water crocodile - Adelaide River NT


Huge salt water crocodile - Adelaide River NT


Look at this huge salt water crocodile come out of the water


Carol and John on the upper deck of the Adelaide River Queen


My beautiful wife - Carol


Mike on the Adelaide River Queen - no beard


A side inlet on the Adelaide River Northern Territory


Look at the magnificent colours of the salty


Carol enjoying the sun and crocodiles as we move up the river


Its looking at me and saying "lunch" - look at the teeth


Pork chop bait and croc - better pork chop than you or me!


Whistling Kite


Whistling Kite


Big old salty enjoying afternoon sun on Adelaide River bank


This model is 8.5metres - killed in 1958 the real one was 8.6m


Our first stop today was Dundee Beach


The solitude of Dundee Beach was just fantastic


So we stopped here on Dundee Beach to have morning tea


The colours looking towards Dundee Beach from Dundee Lodge


We had wedges for lunch here at Dundee Lodge


Our next stop for the day - Crab Claw Island


Crocodiles move around this mangrove tree - Crab Claw Island NT


Rhonda, Carol, John and Steve enjoy the view - Crab Claw Island


Guinea Fowl eating afternoon tea in the mangroves


Bush flower was so colourful

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This is one of two frilled necked lizards we saw on the road


On the beach near Mandorah there was this lovely seat


The view from the back beach at Mandorah


The view from the back beach at Mandorah


Darwin across the harbour from Mandorah Ferry Wharf


Darwin from Mandorah Beach Hotel


Groomed garden - Mandorah Beach Hotel


Sunset back at Free Spirit Caravan Park Darwin


Gunn Point - NT


We looked around Gunn Point then had morning tea here


We are looking at Beagle Gulf from Gunn Point


From Gunn Point we took an unknown track then hit water!


After some serious discussion we decided to cross the river


Here we are in the middle of nowhere and there are crab boats


John, Rhonda, Carol and Leith at Fright Point NT


Tinny, mangroves, lots of crabs and us - Fright Point


Someone obviously lives here at Fright Point


Look how narrow this track is as we leave Fright Point


We have come some 90km up a narrow dirt track - and there are cars


This mangrove swamp 29metres above sea level - dry as a bone