SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 19 August to Friday 25 August

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006
Saturday 19 August to Friday 25 August
Bourke & Wills Roadhouse to Charters Towers
Blog 17

It had rained in the night and it is easy to see how quickly the roads could get boggy.

We headed north to Normanton on a good bitumen road and after a bit of food shopping continued on to the little fishing town of Karumba on the Norman River where it flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria. There were quite a lot of wetlands along the side of the road and we saw lots of Brolgas and other water birds.

The Barramundi Discovery Centre which is mainly run by volunteers breeds barramundi fingerlings and then releases them back into the wild. The barramundi species are specific to an area so they only breed the local fish and release to 4 local areas, back into the Norman River, Albert River near Burketown and 2 freshwater lakes.

It was a great place and we learnt a lot of new things about barramundi. All barramundi are born male and they change into females at2.5 years of age. They have to be in salt water to reproduce even though they can happily live in fresh water. The size limits on fish caught is such that they ensure that the fish will grow enough to change into fertile females.

We watched the sun set over the Gulf of Carpentaria from the Sunset Tavern. Yet another beautiful sunset at another beautiful part of Australia.

The tide was very low and the mud flats and mangroves were exposed. The tide difference here at this time of the month was only 0.2m, nothing like the 8m at Broome.

We got back to the caravan and a couple a few sites down came in to have a look at our Bushtracker. Lovely people and always friendly.

The Ferryman’s bird watching cruise on the Norman River was a lovely way to explore the Norman River and see many of the local birds.

After the cruise we had time to wash the caravan and the car to get the red dust off. There is definitely no water shortage up here!!!

Karumba is a popular tiny fishing town but we were still amazed by the number of boat trailers in the car park.

We based ourselves in Normanton for the next few days. In true Aussie fashion the big crocodile replica, Krys and the Big Barramundi added to the photos of “Big Things”. We looked at the old goal, the Shire Council Chambers and the Westpac Back which of one of the original banks. The old Burns Philp Building is now the tourist information centre and the library. Most of these buildings were here when the town was in it’s hey day in the 1890’s. It is a lovely little town. The old railway station is an original old Victorian building and is well kept with beautiful gardens and 2 resident Brolgas.

We drove from Normanton to Burketown and back without the caravan in tow. The road was unsealed but very good.

Burke and Wills Camp 119, their last camp before reaching the gulf, was along this road. The road crosses many beautiful rivers which allowed us to clearly understand why the road was closed for so long into the dry. We crossed the Bynoe, Flinders Alexandra and Leichhardt Rivers and many large creeks. Leichhardt Falls, situated on the Leichhardt River were beautiful and impressive even this far into the dry. We drove onto the rocky river bed where many campers positioned themselves in the most beautiful spots. A huge amount of silt deposited by the river during the wet had been moved to either side of the road. There were plenty of birds at all the rivers including pelicans, ducks, brolga, cranes, egrets, and of course lots of kites and eagles at the road kills. A monument to Frederick Walker acknowledged his contribution to the area. He was a surveyor of the area and also was part of an expedition trying to find Burke and Wills when they didn’t return. He died of Gulf Fever (typhoid fever) which was brought into the area by a ship that had come through Java and arrived with all of the crew except 2 dead with the disease. As a result of his death and many others in the area the cable link from London/Asia didn’t come through Burketown as people here hoped but rather went through Darwin.

We saw a farmer herding 1000 cattle on his quad bike in front of the herd while directing his cattle dogs. It was a great sight.

Burketown is a small community of about 150 people. The information centre is now in the old Post Office and the Shire Council Chambers both buildings have been in town since its beginning in the 1860s.

Burketown is the Barramundi capital of Australia, is on the Alfred River and is 37km from the Gulf.

After the large flood in 1974 the river actually changed course and they had to build a new wharf and boat ramp. The Albert River is very large even at this time of the year and looks quite similar to the Norman River.

The old bore used to supply the meat works with hot water while they were running and hot water has been flowing continuously since it was drilled in 1897.

We took the Normanton to Croydon 152km Gulflander train trip which was a SLOW but delightful journey with a morning tea stop of scones and cream. It took us 4.5 hours for the journey. The stories of the boom and bust of the gold mining towns along the way were typical of other old gold mining areas. We had a few hours to explore Croydon before taking the bus for a quick trip back to Normanton. At its peak Croydon had a populations of 20,000 and 50 pubs.

We left the caravan at Georgetown and drove to Cobbold Gorge which is unlike any other gorge we have seen. The gorge is on a private cattle station, The Robin Hood Station, and was only discovered in 1992.

It is extremely narrow, only 2m wide in some places and 30m cliffs on either side. The gorge was formed by the sandstone rock splitting due to earth movement rather than erosion. The sandstone is a conglomerate sandstone and as the water from the river and the rain wash over the surface it dissolves some of the minerals in the sandstone and in the process forms a protective layer which is 1cm thick in some parts and this stops further erosion of the sandstone and so the gorge hasn’t really got any wider than when it was originally formed. A bus ride over the Robinson riverbed took us to the aluminium narrow boats which were driven by silent electric motors run by electric batteries which were charged from other batteries that were solar charged. It was a very environmentally friendly and silent set up made the journey particularly memorable.

We stopped at the quartz blow out which is a huge outcrop of quartz produced by heat underground. It is positioned on a bit of a hill and gave a lovely view of the area. The pictures of the day tell it all.

We ended the day at Charters Towers for the night.

We arrived in Normanton and decided to drive on to Karumba

But first a photo - The Purple Pub Normanton

South east corner of the Gulf of Carpentaria - Karumba

Sunset Tavern at Karumba Point

Looking out at the Gulf of Carpentaria - tide is going out

Barramundi Farm - Karumba

Beautiful statue of a Barramundi

Salt water and fresh water croc head skeletons

Small legal size Barramundi are all male

Legal size Barramundi - becomes a female at about 2.5 years old

120cm Illegal size Barramundi - you have to throw her back

Live Barramundi in Breeding Tank - so silver

These are the Barramundi breeding tanks

Carol feeding a Barramundi

Looking inside the breeding tank

These Barramundi are big fish

They produce thousands of fingerlings here

Baby fingerlings are held in these tanks for about three weeks

Then water is pumped out and fingerlings are collected

And distributed into rivers and dams

Where Barra are found

Information on Barramundi Genetic Strains

Sculpture of fisherman at Barramundi Discovery Centre

Brolgas feeding at Karumba wetland

The Gulf of Carpentaria as tide goes out - Karumba

Red leaves so bright against the olive green and blue

Karumba from the Sunset Tavern

Carol on the phone - Sunset Tavern Karumba

The translucent colours of these leaves was eye catching

That subtle wash of dusk - beautiful

Karumba Sunset

Birds flying home as sun sets at Karumba

After Sunset - Karumba

After Sunset - Karumba

After Sunset - Karumba - Magnificent

After Sunset - Karumba

Sunday Morning - Bird watch cruise on the Norman River Karumba

South Eastern bank of the Norman River - Karumba Port

Hundreds of Corellas - Karumba

Variety of boats - Karumba

Great Egret - Norman River Karumba

Whistling Kite picks up a fish - Norman River Karumba

Mangroves - Norman River Karumba

Sea Eagle with fish in claws - Norman River Karumba

Vessel skuttled 1974 - Norman River Karumba

Vessel skuttled 1974 - Norman River Karumba

Sea Eagle - Norman River Karumba

Brahminy Kite - Norman River Karumba

Great Egret - Norman River Karumba

Rarely seen Sacred Kingfisher - Norman River Karumba

Rare Sacred Kingfisher - Norman River Karumba

Zinifex Zinc and Lead Shipping Facility - Karumba Port

Pair of Kites - Norman River Karumba

Whistling Kite - Norman River Karumba

Kite with fish catch - Norman River Karumba

Kite with fish catch - Norman River Karumba

Red Mud Crabs - Norman River Karumba

Mud slug - Norman River Karumba

Huge spider webs everywhere - Norman River Karumba

Last look at the skuttled ship - Norman River Karumba

Brahminy Kite with catch - Norman River Karumba

Kite in flight - Norman River Karumba

Whistling Kite - Norman River Karumba

Looking at the Gulf of Carpentaria from the Norman River mouth

Osprey surveys the Norman River at Karumba

I think this tinny is full - Norman River Karumba

Norman River Karumba

Lots of pairs of loving Corellas - Norman River Karumba

We spent the afternoon washing the van and truck

This kangaroo was feeding behind our caravan at Karumba Point

G'day mate did you enjoy the shortbread biscuits we gave you?

Carol counted over 80 boat trailers here at Karumba Point

Mangroves at Karumba Point

Looking towards the Gulf from Karumba Point

Left of Lighthouse Norman River - Right is Gulf of Carpentaria

Looking north to Sunset Tavern on the Gulf at high tide

Tinny trailers everywhere and there is our Bushtracker

We arrived in Normanton and first stop was Normanton Station

We booked to take the Gulflander to Croydon on Wednesday

They used this Baby Gulflander until 1991

Normanton Station - quaint

This is a repair car at Normanton Station

Front verandah at Normanton Station - fresh

Mike walked around the Normanton Station and found two Brolgas

This Brolga stayed the other moved away as Mike approached

This Brolga was very tolerant of Mike taking photos

Okay said the Brolga lets dance

What a magnificent bird the Brolga is

Carol watching Brolgas at Normanton Station Qld

Quick drive around Normanton - the Big Barra

Can you imagine an 8.63 metre saltwater crocodile

Carol next to replica of largest Croc ever caught in the world

Look at the size of its mouth - frightening

Replica of the largest Croc ever caught Norman River Normanton

Burns Philp building - BP was the biggest trader in the area

Shire offices - Normanton

Old Gaol - Normanton

Old Gaol - Normanton

Looking East along the Norman River

Looking West along the Norman River from old Normanton wharf

Today we are off to visit Burketown without our caravan

First stop - Explorers Burke & Wills Camp 119 site

This plaque shows the route Burke & Wills took in 1861

Information on Burke & Wills Camp 119 of 1860

Burke & Wills blazed this tree in 1860

We drove past the Bynoe River

Left of road view of Bynoe River

On the Savannah Way heading to Burketown

Look - Pelicans

Some rivers are huge but almost dry

Looking right of Savannah Way - River has no water flowing

We then arrived at the Leichhardt River

In flood the Leichhardt is 9km wide

This is the Leichhardt River in the dry

Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River

Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River

Leichhardt River above the Falls

Leichhardt River

Look at all the silt and sand delivered in the last flood

Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River

Carol at Leichhardt Falls Qld

Aussie Bush Flower

Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River

On to Surveyor Fredrick Walkers Monument

This is the grave of Fredrick Walker

Statue on Fredrick Walkers grave

Information on Fredrick Walker

Carol and Statue on Fredrick Walkers grave

Magnificent homestead on private road next to Walker Grave Road

This drover is teaching a new dog as he moves this mob

Over 1,000 head of cattle - one guy and five cattle dogs

Really nice bloke - stopped to have a quick chat

and the mob kept moving

Controlled by this drovers dogs

The mob went exactly where the dogs wanted them to go

Hooray - Burketown, couldn't get here in May because of the wet

Information Centre used to be the Burketown Post Office

Aussie Bush Flower

Largest mass grave in Australia is here but we couldn't find it

We did see this old family graves

And we walked the whole cemetery but no luck

Burketown Historic site - Boiling Down Meat Works

Burketown Historic site - Boiling Down Meat Works

The Albert River - Burketown

Burketown Wharf on the Albert River

Albert River boat ramp at Burketown Wharf

Okay this is Burketown - took us two hours to see it all

The Burketown Pub

Toilet sign inside The Burketown Pub

Sign in the bar of The Burketown Pub

The Burketown Pub - main bar

Burketown Bore - hot bore water since 1897 - not fit for humans

Only adult cattle can drink this bore water safely

Great colours - the minerals build up around the Burketown Bore

One last shot of the Leichhardt River as we headed back to Normanton

Normanton to Croydon 152km opened 1891 on the Gulflander

Train engine RM93 was commissioned in 1950

This Brolga's name is Gregory Peck

Gregory Peck is at Normanton Station every day with his mate

Ah Gregory Peck, how handsome you are

Aussie Bush Flower

Drivers cockpit on RM93 Gulflander Engine

But we only travelled at 25km per hour

Here we all are in the engine room of RM93

Scenes along the route from Normanton to Croydon

Old boiler along the route from Normanton to Croydon

Scenes along the route from Normanton to Croydon

Scenes along the route from Normanton to Croydon

We were 22 geriatrics in the front carriage of the Gulflander

Scenes along the route from Normanton to Croydon

Delivering Mail along the route from Normanton to Croydon

We stopped here for morning tea and scones

The scones were home made with fresh jam and cream - delicious

Red ants everywhere at Black Bull Siding

One of the old work sheds at Black Bull Siding

Inside the old shed - workers bed and belongings

Good old fashioned Aussie outside "Dunny" (toilet)

Carol finally looked my way inside the Gulflander

Open cut goldmine along the route from Normanton to Croydon

And after nearly five hours we arrived at Croydon Station-152km

Fantastic Pod Tree in Croydon

Croydon Courthouse c. 1887

Carol on the bench at Croydon Courthouse

Carol in the chair - Croydon Courthouse

Croydon old Police Station c. 1896 Old Gaol on left

Croydon Information Centre was Police Sergeant's house c. 1898

Croydon Old Police Station c. 1896 - Lampost made 1895

Old Croydon Gaol c. 1896

Inside cell - Old Croydon Gaol c. 1896

Cell Doors - Old Croydon Gaol c. 1896

Old Croydon Gaol c. 1896 - Back view

Original Tabletop School House - Croydon

Old Miner's Hut built in 1956 - replica of first prefab in Aus

Painting of old house in Croydon

This was the house we saw in the painting - amazing

Saddle Bag and Stock Whip tribute to drovers in Croydon

Sculpture of Drover's Hat - tribute in Croydon

Interesting Sculpture (Golden Gate Gold Mine) in Croydon Park

Croydon Shire, Wattle and Gold bucket - Croydon Park Sculpture

Federation Park was nicely laid out with excellent sculptures

Information plaque on following sculpture by Hans Pehl

Tagalaka Aborigines - Spear and Boomerang Monument

Information on Datum Post Reference Tree

Ironwood Reference Tree used in Croydon Town Survey 1888

A most beautiful rose at the Croydon Cafe

Conference and SES Centre was male ward of Hospital c. 1894

Club Hotel - last of 36 hotels in Croydon c. 1887

Croydon General Store

Inside Croydon General Store

Croydon General Store

Inside Croydon General Store

On our way to Cobbold Gorge - 90km south east of Georgetown

Carol waiting at the Savannah Guide Station - Cobbold Gorge

Big spider - Savannah Guide Station - Cobbold Gorge

Ripe Wild Passionfruit - tastes banana like
but a real pest to Australia

Robin Hood Station - 1284 sq km - Cobbald Gorge left mid edge

We took the bus across the property to get to Cobbald Gorge

Dry Robinson River - Robin Hood Station

Look how wide it is and imagine 2 metres height of water rushing down this

Here at Cobbald Creek the freshwater crocs lay their eggs

Walking to the boat at the beginning of Cobbald Gorge

Cobbold Gorge - Conglomerate Sandstone walls

Entering the Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge - just magnificent

Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

Water has etched the sandstone as it runs through Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

This is as far as we can go in Cobbold Gorge

The sandstone block dropped into and blocked the Gorge

Lots of beautiful spiders and their webs in Cobbold Gorge

The environment here is perfect for moss to grow - Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge

Water carved through sandstone - Cobbold Gorge

Less than two metres from us - a big fresh water crocodile

Cobbold Gorge

This fern is from the Jurassic Period - one of only two here

Bob was an excellent guide - Cobbold Gorge

Nearing end of journey - Cobbold Gorge

Great reflections - Cobbold Gorge

Guide Bob parking our electric motor tour boat - Cobbold Gorge

Rufus or Night Heron in tree at Cobbald Creek

It was a great trip and now we head back to our trucks

On the way out we went to Quartz Blows - 3km from Cobbold Gorge

Hill full of Quartz Blow

Quartz blow is an amazing outcrop

Here is the surrounding view of Robin Hood Station

Looking down from top of Quartz Blow

View from top of Quartz Blow

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 12 August to Friday 18 August

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006
Saturday 12 August to Friday 18 August
Broome to Burke & Wills Roadhouse
Blog 16

We said goodbye to our friends and started our journey east along the Great Northern Highway. We spotted 2 magnificent Wedge Tail Eagles and stopped for lunch under the shade of a grand old boab tree. We stopped at Fitzroy Crossing.

We decided to take the short cut from Halls Creek to the Stuart Highway via some dirt roads, through old Halls Creek on Duncan Rd. We stopped for lunch at a place called Palm Springs and finally just stopped for the night off the road in the middle of nowhere. It was a perfect bush sunset, the evening was quiet and the stars VERY bright and abundant.

The next day we bought petrol at Kalkarindgi at $1.80/L, the most expensive petrol so far, even more expensive than on the Birdsville Track.

The Buntine Highway was a bitumen section which gave us some reprieve from the corrugations before the very dusty and corrugated Buchanan Highway section. The corrugations were so bad that the bottom of 2 of our soft drink bottles had holes rubbed into them and we spent the next few hours at Daly Waters Inn cleaning up the sticky mess.
With that experience behind us we decided to change our plans and rather than travel the unsealed Savannah Way we headed to Tennant Creek on the Stuart Highway.

Our first stop was Newcastle Waters, a fantastic old township which is now just part of the Newcastle Waters Station. The old buildings included tin sheds, old petrol pumps and of course a statue dedicated to the drovers who drove cattle along the stock routes. The lake had an abundance of bird life, Fairy Martins, Ibis, Spoonbills and we even managed to see 2 beautiful Brolgas. On our way into Tennant Creek we stopped at the monument to John McDuall Stuart.

After dinner we went to listen to Jimmy Hooker, the bush tucker man at the caravan park. We sat around the campfire listening to his stories and poems. The finale of the evening was sampling some of the local bushtucker including cooked witchety grubs which we both tasted.

The next day was busy with exploring the Devils Marbles 105km south towards Alice Springs. The Devils Marbles are large granite rocks with some amazing formations. One of the boulders had been placed on John Flynn's grave at another location but was eventually returned to its original site as it is part of an Aboriginal Sacred Site.

We both love mine tours so of course the Tennant Creek mine and battery tour was a must. Gold was discovered in 1927 and the gold boom didn't start until 1930 at the time when the country was in a great Depression. The town of Tennant Creek was formed and the population grew to 600 people. There is still mining going on but mainly for copper and gold. Our tour guide Ray was a local miner and had lots of stories to tell.
We finished the day at the Bill Ellen Lookout which gave a 360 degree view of the area around Tennant Creek.

Our bodies were still on Broome time but the mornings had a different cool to them. Before leaving Tennant Creek we read the history of the local people in the beautiful new building of the Aboriginal Arts and Craft Centre, Nyinkka Nyunyu. The stories are always upsetting and there doesn't seem to be a simple solution to our current situation.

We then stopped at the Mary Ann Dam and enjoyed the water and the birds for a while and then headed off to the Old Telegraph Station 10km out of Tennant Creek. The Telegraph Station stopped functioning as a telegraph station in 1935 after the gold was discovered and Tennant Creek became a town.

The station was a repeater station in the link from Darwin to Adelaide and the world map showed the link from London to Adelaide. Building and maintaining this line was truly a fantastic feat. The repeater stations had to service the lines and make sure that all was OK. They also had to maintain the batteries that supplied the 120V needed to send the Morse code. They used MANY copper sulfate and magnesium sulfate with zinc and lead electrodes units each supplying 1-1.5V.

We had travelled across the Northern Territory and into Queensland again, stopping just inside the border at Camooweal. We continued our journey through Mt Isa and then north at Cloncurry towards the Gulf of Carpentaria.

We arrived at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse situated in the middle of nowhere and were surprised to find that it was almost full with travellers. A rodeo was in progress across the road which looked like a scene out of McLeod's Daughters with all the men, women and children in their blue jeans, checked shirts hats and boots. What a fantastic scene with a lot of young people and young families attending and competing.

We left Broome heading to Fitzroy Crossing and lunched here
Under a magnificent old Boab Tree

Past old Halls Creek on the Duncan Road

One of many waterways we crossed on the Duncan Road

You never tire of scenes like this

Hmmm Palm Springs - we've been here before

Palm Springs

Palm Springs

Beautiful white Gum at Palm Springs

We pulled up to overnight on Duncan Road

Pulled out the generator and made ourselves at home

Enjoyed the late afternoon sun

In the middle of nowhere on a back dirt road - magic

First petrol for 400km and it cost $1.85 per litre - what a rip-off

Yep typical view of Aboriginals in their communities

Next stop was Top Springs - isolated place

Top Springs - we've come 560km on back tracks

But the last 170km was sealed

But now we have 182km of really corrugated dirt

And there is just us - the ground was 5cm thick dust powder

Historic Newcastle Waters on our way to Tennant Creek

Drover Statue at Newcastle Waters

Such strong faces

They were the backbone of the country

Old Petrol Bowser at Newcastle Waters

The Junction Hotel - Newcastle Waters

Information on Junction Hotel

Inside Junction Hotel - Newcastle Waters

Junction Hotel - Newcastle Waters

House and skirt - Newcastle Waters

Old Store - Historic Newcastle Waters

Old Store Kitchen - Historic Newcastle Waters

Information Board in Old Store

Historic Newcastle Waters

Brolgas - at Historic Newcastle Waters
We watched these birds for about twenty minutes

These two Brolgas were great to watch

Brolga dances for us

Stuart Memorial at Attack Creek

Note the date on the Stuart Memorial at Attack Creek

Tennant Creek Visitor Information Centre

We left Tennant Creek and drove 105km south to see this

The Devils Marbles - Dreamtime Rainbow Serpent's Eggs

Lots of granite rocks like this - naturally shaped like marbles

Aboriginals consider these rocks sacred

believing they are the eggs of the Aboriginal Rainbow Serpent

It was a beautiful morning and the formations were interesting

Amazing how these huge granite formations just stand

Devils Marble - go on Carol push

Information on the Devils Marble Site

How a huge Boulder Cracks in Two

Like this

Devils Marbles

Look how straight the boulder split and see the one going (right)

Royal Flying Doctors Service founder John Flynn's original headstone had to be returned here

Mike at the Devils Marbles - Northern Territory

See the eyes, nose and smile on this Devils Marble

What a view - Devils Marbles

Back in Tennant Creek for a mine tour

This is Battery Hill - Tennant Creek Gold Mine

Ray our guide shows us a magnetite gold bearing rock

at the entrance to the mine

Magnetite infused with fine gold particles - 37 ounces per ton

This one magnetite rock weighs over 7 tonne

Inside Entrance to Gold Mine

Ray explains how early mines had physical models of mine layouts

Tools that old prospectors used to mine for gold

Model of "Crazy Mick" prospecting for gold in the old days

Today they drill with hammers like this

Miner Carol with hard hat and ear muffs

One of the very few air driven lights still working in Australia

Ray rebuilt this shovel scoop and showed us how it worked

It picks ore off the ground and tips it into the bin behind

This is how dynamite and fuses are stored in the mine

Miners cribb - where they eat, meet, first aid, etc

40 year old Kelvinator Fridge still works

Looking up to the surface from the main shaft

It may not look like a lot of crap but its necessary

Ore shaft - how they moved ore from one level to another

Modern miners use drills like this to assay cores for gold

Aboriginal land occupation history at Battery Hill

Head Frame at Battery Hill Gold Mine

How they process ore to extract gold at Tennant Creek Battery

This truck would drop 12 tonne of mine ore into the battery

The crushers would crush the ore and send it onto the conveyor

View from the first crusher

One of the batteries that smash ore rock

Into this size for the battery

These batteries pound the ore into powder

You wouldn't think this could turn rock into powder

Stamp battery flow diagram

Here mercury is recovered by distillation

Ingot mould, 48 ounce gold ingot and borax impurities

Ball mill used to extract gold into mercury amalgums

The Minerals Museum at Battery Hill had great samples to view

Corner of Davidson Street - Slim Dusty concrete hand print

And John Farnham and many more

Davidson Walk - Tennant Creek

Murals abound everywhere in the bush - even here

On this shop front in Tennant Creek

Jacksons Bar - Tennant Creek Hotel

Peter Jackson plaque in Tennant Creek Hotel

Inside Jacksons Bar

Tennant Creek Hotel

Stockman's Bar and drunk - Tennant Creek

Aboriginal Art and Culture Centre - Tennant Creek

But we were not allowed to take photos inside

Tennant Creek Catholic Church

We left Tennant Creek and visited Mary Ann Dam just up the road

Not much to see - Mary Ann Dam

Mary Ann Dam

Great art on toilet wall - Mary Ann Dam

Last stop - Tennant Creek Telegraph Station

Information on Historic Tennant Creek Telegraph Station

This was the kitchen and living quarters

This is the actual Telegraph house

Information on the construction of a permanent centre

Exactly 104 years before Lisa was born

Great cool verandahs

Carol in the kitchen - Old Telegraph Station Tennant Creek

These were the work shed and carriage stable

Love the way they ventilated rooms

Tennant Creek Telegraph Station

Bye Tennant Creek and Bushtuckerman Jimmy Hooker

Hello Cocky at Barkly Homestead Roadhouse

Green Parrot - Barkly Homestead Roadhouse

Yellow Parrot - Barkly Homestead Roadhouse

Burke and Wills Memorial on the road to Normanton

Burke and Wills Memorial on the road to Normanton

Aboriginal Memorial on the road to Normanton

Burke and Wills Roadhouse - 180km south of Normanton Qld

Roadsign at Burke and Wills Roadhouse

There was a rodeo on so we went to look

Horse riders timed around a three drums ride

She was very fast

Carol thought this was just so cute

Ye Ha as another rider tries to beat the clock

Carol said this was McCloud's Daughters in real life

This little girl was fast

and had full control of her horse

Here she is - just amazing, so young yet so competent

Okay fellas what's happening

This girl was the eventual winner - and she deserved it

These cattle were waiting to be taken to market

Such warm and friendly faces

We'll just wait till they pick us up

Typical Cattle Road Train in northern Queensland

Image these racing past you at 100km per hour on a single track

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 5 August to Friday 11 August

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006
Saturday 5 August to Friday 11 August
Broome
Blog 15

This is our last week in Broome and we are making the most of the weather and the beach. More sunsets and camel ride watching. Life’s tough!!!

We took a trip to the Broome Birds Observatory which was disappointing so we decided to go on our own explore.

We had a lovely evening at the Luggers to listen to an interview with Bud Tingwell. It was a great night sitting under the stars with the sail of the lugger as the backdrop for the interview.

Lee Kernagen, the country singer, was performing at the Roebuck Bay Pub. We all decided to go and it was a fantastic evening. The music was loud and ofcourse we have been listening to the CD as we drive ever since.

We decided to visit the Japanese and Chinese Cemeteries before we left Broome. The Japanese section was immaculately kept with quite a lot of graves of pearl divers.

We positioned ourselves early at Town Beach to get some better photos of the Staircase to the Moon and Mike managed to get some great shots.

Our stay in Broome was over and we finally had to pack away the annex and get organized for our travels home.

We made sure we soaked up the beauty of Cable Beach and headed off for dinner out with our friends and the last of the Staircase to the Moon views.

It was a lovely way to finish a magic 6 weeks.

Huge stick insect visited our annex

I think I will move in - its very nice here

Bit hard climbing over this Annex

This stick insect was missing one leg

Well done Carol - you got some good shots in

Sunday at Cable Beach - Girls

Sunday at Cable Beach - Pearl Lugger

Sunday at Cable Beach - Police on the Beach

Sunday at Cable Beach - Seagull

Sunday at Cable Beach - Fishing

Sunday at Cable Beach - Nude Sunbaking under the Moon

Sunday at Cable Beach - Old Stallion

Sunday at Cable Beach - Strolling

Sunday at Cable Beach - All shapes and so shy

Sunday at Cable Beach - Just enjoying the beach

Sunday at Cable Beach - Dog waiting for ball toss

Sunday at Cable Beach - Old bird strutting its stuff

Sunday at Cable Beach - More birds strutting their stuff

Sunday at Cable Beach - breathlessly beautiful

We went to the Bird Observatory to do a "guided tour"

Broome Bird Observatory

Broome Bird Observatory - Bill length Information

What the birds eat

Broome Bird Observatory - Mangroves but no birds

Broome Bird Observatory - we left the tour disgusted

View at Broome Bird Observatory but no birds

Broome Bird Observatory - Aborigines have had a feast on the beach

Broome Bird Observatory - Another view of Roebuck Bay

Mulla Mulla Wildflowers

And finally we saw some birds - but they left

And this was as close as we got to birds at the Bird Observatory

So we enjoyed the walk along the mangroves

Roebuck Bay Mangroves

Pearl Luggers - Meet Bud Tingwell drew a crowd of hundreds

Sails made a perfect backdrop

Pearl Luggers - Bud Tingwell talking about his life

Keith interviewed Bud Tingwell

Pearl Luggers - Bud Tingwell's book about his life

After the talk Bud Tingwell autographed his book

It was Bob Halls turn to meet Bud Tingwell

Bob and Bud and Bud - it was a lovely night

We visited the Broome Japanese Cemetery

Broome Japanese Cemetery - beautifully restored

Broome Japanese Cemetery - All Japanese Pearl Divers

These all died in one cyclone - Broome Japanese Cemetery

Broome Japanese Cemetery - such simple beach stones

Broome Japanese Cemetery - Headstone of local beach rock

Next door was the Broome Chinese Cemetery

Broome Chinese Cemetery Headstone

Broome Chinese Cemetery - Chinese Pearler's grave

Broome Chinese Cemetery - elaborate headstone

Broome Chinese Cemetery - not a bad innings 1914 to 2005

Broome Chinese Cemetery - Mother of Pearl Oysters on Headstone

Full tide in Roebuck Bay - and the colours of the water, wow

Roebuck Bay - colours are just wonderful

Town Beach in Roebuck Bay looking towards Port of Broome Wharf

Roebuck Bay Caravan Park at Town Beach

Last look this trip at Camels on Cable Beach

May I be of assistance darling?

Look at my eyelashes - am I not beautiful

Who me - can't be

Another view of our rig on Cable Beach

Waves of sand that 4WD's just love - Cable Beach

One operator bought out three operators licences - not happy times here

Town Beach at Roebuck Bay as the tide goes out

Excellent feeding opportunity for the birds

Majestic Kite overhead

Kite wings down

Kite sillouette

Waiting for the full moon - Sunset at Roebuck Bay

Late light on Town beach and Roebuck Bay

Carol at end of Town Beach wharf waiting for Full Moon Rise

And here she comes - Moon Rise

Moon rising through cloud

Moon rising through cloud - what a great colour

Full Moon rising above clouds and staircase to the moon

Full Moon rising and staircase to the moon

Full Moon and staircase to the moon

Second Night of Staircase - our last night in Broome

Second Night of Staircase to the Moon
Goodbye Broome - its been a fantastic
six weeks here

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006 - Saturday 29 July to Friday 4 August

SYDNEY BROOME TRIP 2006
Saturday 29 July to Friday 4 August
Broome
Blog 14

It has been a very busy week. We celebrated Christmas in July with a street party in the caravan park. There was Santa Claus and Mrs Claus and of course Christmas presents, music and dancing. We all had a great night.

We headed down the Cape Leveque Rd with Steve and Leith for 3 days and 2 nights at magic Cape Leveque. The road was much better than Mike and I remembered it from our 2002 trip.

Our first stop was the Beagle Bay Aboriginal Community. The communities on the Dampier Penninsula are quite small and it seemed quite clean. There was a beautiful church which had been built in 1917,which was decorated with beautiful oyster and cowrie shells. The decoration had taken 2 years to complete.

We then took the short cut to Middle Lagoon which is a beautiful isolated fishing spot. The camping ground has showers, water and toilets but no power. The beach was spectacular and each spot is so different even though the distances between them may be small. We spent some time wandering around the beach.

We made our way back to the Broome Cape Leveque Rd and drove the last 70km to Cape Leveque, the last 20km of road was bitumen. A lot of changes in the last 4 years since we have been here.

As we arrived at Cape Leveque or Kooljaman as the local Bardi and Jawa people call it, it was just as breathtakingly beautiful as we remembered it. We drove down onto the beach and then up along the Hunters Creek. There is a resident croc and we were told to be careful but people were still fishing on the sides of the river!!!. We drove through the sand and over the dunes and I think that I am losing my fear of sand driving. I even decided to do some sand driving myself.

The creek was beautiful with its mangroves, different colours of crystal clear water. We got back in time watch the sunset at Western Beach. The red cliffs, white sand and blue water with the evening sun was calming and breathtaking.

The next day we drove across to the other side of the penninsula to One Arm Point or Ardiyooloon, which is a lovely aboriginal community at the top of Dampier Penninsula.

We drove down to the beaches the first of which was Jologo Beach. They have a lot of Trochus shells in this area and we were lucky enough to find a few while wandering along the beach. The beaches are beautiful and the locals still catch turtle and dugong and cook and eat them around shelters that they have built along the beaches. The next beach along was Middle Beach with lots of rocks with rock oysters on them. I have never seen oysters like that.

The community runs a Hatchery with a number of large tanks with a variety of fish, barramundi, tropical clown fish, squid, shell creatures sea anenoemies. We all had a great time looking and playing with the fish.

On our way home we stopped at the Lombadina Community. The lawns were cared for, green and neat. We spent some time wandering along the pristine beach. Each view has its own magic.

Jim and Olive prepare Santa's truck

Christmas in July street party - Cable Beach Caravan Park

Christmas in July street party - Cable Beach Caravan Park

Mary, our gorgeous neighbour

Jim and Olive - hosts of the Christmas in July street party

Norm, Mary's husband, dressed to the nines

Party animal and hostess - Olive

One of the participants Gordon at the Xmas in July street party

Our other neighbour Lyn and husband Ray on this table

Lyn, Leith, Bob, Joy, Steve and Carol - Merry Xmas

Steve, Bob, Mike, Leith and Lyn in Xmas party hat mode

Mary and son Terry

Around 100 people enjoyed this wonderful party in Broome

Okay lets go says Olive

Rudolph (Greg Beacham) will get them to the street party on time

Darrell, Olive and Angel Peter

Olive greets the eager crowd

Greg (Rudolph) Beacham - one of the Caravan Park owner's son

Lets get out of the sleigh and give out the presents

A very beautiful Xmas Olive

Peter really rattled these girls

Santa Olive and Greg - the centre of attention

Carol loved the crowd at the Xmas in July Party

All the boys happy to see Peter

Joe can't wipe the smile off his face
he got a Xmas booby

Joy and Joe with Penis whistle and boob

Jimmy played John Howards brother

Another glorious day at Cable Beach - Broome

Another glorious day at Cable Beach - Broome

Heaven on Earth - Cable Beach - Broome

Geriatrics like us on their afternoon stroll

Carol relaxing in the afternoon sun on Cable Beach

Beautiful, peaceful Cable Beach - you never tire of it

High tide at Cable Beach - Broome

Reflections because of the high tide at Cable Beach

Camels and reflections - Cable Beach - Broome

Camel Train - Cable Beach - Broome

How serene is this?

Sunset throws great light on Camel Train at Cable Beach

Another beautiful Sunset at Cable Beach

Sunset - Cable Beach

Magnificent sunset - Cable Beach - Broome

Beagle Bay on the road to Cape Leveque

Beagle Bay Church

The Beagle Bay Church

Mother of pearl everywhere in the Beagle Bay Church

How magnificent this altar is in the Beagle Bay Church

Pearl Lugger on side table

Aboriginal art in the Beagle Bay Church

Altar inside the Beagle Bay Church

Corner posts were all made of shells, body was mother of pearl

Info on Beagle Bay Church built in 1917

Side view - Beagle Bay Church

We went to the Beagle Bay store for information

And took the suggested shortcut to Middle Lagoon

Then we walked over the sand dune to look at Middle Lagoon

Middle Lagoon on the Dampier Peninsula

This shell at Middle Lagoon was alive and moving

And finally we arrived at Cape Leveque

Arriving to check in at Kooljaman

Jumigee was our safari tent for two nights at Cape Leveque

Carol and Mike had the double bed, Steve and Leith the single beds

Carol and Leith bringing in all the gear

And on the balcony a bar-b-que, table and four armchairs

Looking along the Eastern side of Kooljamin toward Hunter Creek

Cape Leveque Lighthouse and our Safari Tent accommodation

We decided to hit the sand and go to Hunters Creek

White Sand against salmon sand with pandanas - beautiful

This is the "road" we took

Seven kilometres of sand like this to Hunters Creek

This is the mouth of Hunters Creek at the Indian Ocean

Steve and Carol on the rocks above Hunters Creek

The water of Hunters Creek was crystal clear

Despite a resident croc warning, these guys had to go fishing

We decided to drive down the side of Hunters Creek

The water and views were just magic

And Hunters Creek is incredibly large and long

Views of Hunters Creek

Another view of Hunters Creek

Heiroglyphics? No bird tracks and mangrove sticks at Hunters Creek

Another view of Hunters Creek

Eastern Beach

Carol wants to know why there is a lump in the sand

Steve at the reef on the Eastern side of Cape Leveque

The water is incredibly clear on the Eastern side of Cape Leveque

We looked up at the sand dunes

This landscape at Cape Leveque is unbelievable

We drove to the Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Seagull in flight over Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Very hard to take, watching/listening to the ocean like this

Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Western Beach of Cape Leveque looking towards Leveque Island

Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Great rock formations - Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Rock and Carol - both so beautiful

Look at all the different textures and colours

What a great beach

Carol and Mike - Cape Leveque

Is this a Star Wars character or a Klu Klux Clan member

Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Western Beach of Cape Leveque - nearly sunset

Western Beach of Cape Leveque

There's that beautiful woman again

Leith and Steve - Sunset at Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Couple on the beach enjoying the sunset

Western Beach of Cape Leveque at Sunset

Sunset - Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Sun has now set - Western Beach of Cape Leveque

Our rig enjoyed the sunset too

This morning we left Cape Leveque and drove to One Arm Point

It's an Aboriginal community 18km south east of Cape Leveque

This bloke on the quad bike buzzed all over the place with dog

From the centre of One Arm Point we drove to Jologo Beach

Jologo Beach - beautiful

Jologo Beach

Jologo Beach - not a human footstep anywhere here

The northern end of Jologo beach was full of rocks

Carol had never seen so many oyster shells on rocks before this

Mike loved the mangrove shoots

We drove up the coast to Middle Beach

Middle Beach

Fishermens hut and tinny

Steve, Carol and Leith looking for shells in the rocks

Aboriginals just leave their tinnies by the water

Large Sea Turtle was dinner recently

This stone bar-b-que was excellently built

Toilet aboriginal artwork

From the One Arm Point boat ramp we went to Round Rock lookout

Round Rock Lookout

The rocks at Round Rock Lookout

Loved the tree at Round Rock Lookout

One Arm Point Hatchery

These are small Trochus shells being grown in the hatchery

This marine fish was very tame - came up for food

The colours in this huge clam were just magnificent

Such magificent colours and shapes

Another Trochus - great mother of pearl colours under outer shell

The hatchery at One Arm Point was fantastic

Mike could touch this fish without any fear

Last view of the hatchery at One Arm Point

We came to the school to see shell art - but it was cancelled

So back to Cape Leveque swimming beach

Where Steve, Leith, Carol and Mike went swimming

Our Safari Tent above, Steve, Leith and Carol enjoy the sun

and these too

Rocks and sand - so many colour variations

Look a Brown Booby Bird

The beach just beckoned

Want to dance?

Or shall I fly

No I will just strut

Sunset from out safari tent at Cape Leveque

Mike enjoying our last morning at Cape Leveque

Carol and Mike breakfast on our balcony at Cape Leveque

This aboriginal community has a real future

Steve, Ron and Carol - Ron is originally from Cape York

Ron now works in the artefacts factory at Lombadina

Leith, Ron and Carol - he was a lovely, talkative guy

Some of the Trochus shells that Ron polishes

Fantastic Curtain Fig at Lombadina

Lombadina Church and garden - beautifully manicured

Even the old houses are well looked after in this community

Lets look inside the Lombadina Catholic Church

Very simple, but very clean and nicely laid out

Jesus and Aboriginal influence at this altar

SIde of Lombadina Church

The Lombadina Op Shop

Boganvillia and new shed at Lombadina

We drove over the sand dunes to Lombadina Beach

Pristine Lombadina Beach

Carol and Leith found lots of great shells here at Lombadina

We left our trucks to go shell hunting on the beach

Lombadina Beach