Mike & Carol's Bushtracker Adventures Around Australia

Monday, May 28, 2007

SYDNEY - HALLS CREEK TRIP 2007

SYDNEY - HALLS CREEK TRIP 2007
Tuesday 22 May to Monday 28 May
Broken Hill to Kings Canyon
Blog 2

The road was quiet as we left Broken Hill heading west and the countryside very green. We stopped at Peterborough in SA whose claim to fame originally was that many of the trains came through there and it had stations with all 3 gauges from the different states. We then had an easy drive to Port Augusta and stayed on the west side of the Spencer Gulf. Port Augusta is the power house of SA as it produces most of the states electricity for the state.

From Port Augusta we headed north on Stuart Highway, the Explorers Way, A87 (which ever name you want), to Woomera and stopped for lunch at the Hart Lake rest stop. We walked down to Lake Hart which had water in it but had a lot of salt crusted at the edge. The rail track was being repaired and we stopped to talk to the railway men. They had a fantastic piece of machinery which slightly lifted sections of the track and straightened it.

The next day was perfect with blue cloudless skies, red dirt and low shrubs as we stopped at Coober Pedy for petrol. We didn’t spend any time in Coober Pedy as we had been there before.

We stopped at Marla which is no more than a roadhouse and Caravan Park and the start of the Oodnadatta Track and then crossed into the Northern Territory stopping at Kugera which is the first and last pub in NT and enjoyed a beautiful outback sunset.

We continued to drive north on the Stuart Highway stopping at Erlunda, which is the turn off to Uluru, for petrol.

We turned west off the Stuart Highway onto the Lassiter Highway taking us to Uluru. The countryside was very green with lots of trees and shrubs along the way; much more vegetation than when we were here in 1997.

We stayed at Yulara Resort Caravan Park as camping at Uluru was no longer allowed. We spent some time at the Cultural Centre which was great and then went down to enjoy the sun setting at Uluru.

The walk around Uluru was spectacular even though it was quite hot, the flies were dreadful but we both had our hats and fly nets on. Without them we wouldn’t have been able to open our mouths.

Each section of the walk provided different and spectacular views of Uluru. Uluru itself is a large arkose sandstone sedimentary rock, a coarsely grained rock mainly containing the mineral feldspar. The weathering and erosion it quite different in the different sections I guess because the weather conditions heat, wind, sand blown sections, vegetation growing on the rock are different. The natural rock that is not exposed to the air is quite grey but once the area is exposed to air and water it is oxidised to the red iron oxide colour.

Our next stop was Olgas, the aboriginal name is Kata Tjuta. It is a conglomerant sedimentary rock; a mixture of gravel, pebbles, boulders cemented together with sand and mud. It contains minerals and other rock types including basalt and granite. Of course this is western society’s explanation of the structure not the Anangu peoples belief of the structures.

On our drive back to Yulara both Kata Tjuta and Uluru were actually purple with a dull red earth, green shrubs and blue/yellow/pink sky behind it. It was a beautiful sight.

We had an easy drive to Kings Canyon and just relaxed by the pool and chatted with other travellers.

The next day we drove down to Kings Canyon and Mike sensibly decided to rest his foot after Uluru walk so I did the 6km canyon top walk on my own. It was quite a strenuous walk starting with a 100m rise very quickly. The walk and views were spectacular with the sandstone formation of the domes forming from compressed sand dunes and then erosion. The bottom of the canyon has waterholes and beautiful old cycads in what is known as the Garden of Eden.


Peterborough Hotel - South Australia


Three Rail Guages used to arrive at Peterborough


We decided to walk down to Lake Hart - South Australia


Wreck at Lake Hart - South Australia


In the stormwater tunnel under the Ghan Railway track


One huge salt bed - Lake Hart - South Australia


Lake Hart - South Australia


Salt mounds - Lake Hart - South Australia


Heart shaped salt - Lake Hart - South Australia


This train is lifting and straighening the track - amazing


Requires only one operator


Front section lifts the track - the two arms (right) then pick up the concrete sleeper


and compacts the fill under the lifted sleeper


and this machine smoothes out the gravel on the sides of the track


Aussie Bush Flowers - Red

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Aussie Bush Flowers - Yellow

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We overnighted at Bon Bon free camp site


Four petrol tanker road train - wow


We lunched at Cadney Homestead Roadhouse


Then drove to Marla Roadhouse


The colours of these flowers at Marla were magnificent


And finally we entered the Northern Territory


Mount Conner - third largest monolith on the road to Yulara (Ayres Rock)


Eight years ago we stayed here at Sails - now we are back at the caravan park


Its time to enter the National Park and view sunset at Uluru


Ayres Rock in all her splendor


Aussie Bush Flowers - Honey Grevillia

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Aussie Bush Flowers -

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Uluru Cultural Centre is a must see if you are at the Rock


View of Ayres Rock from the Cultural Centre - no photos were allowed inside


Scene before sun set on Uluru (Ayres Rock)


Scenes as the sun sets on Uluru (Ayres Rock)


Scenes as the sun sets on Uluru (Ayres Rock)


Home and to bed tomorrow we will walk the 11km base of Uluru


They are climbing Ayres Rock - even though the Aboriginal Owners say don't


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Aboriginal Rock Art in a cave at Uluru

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Wind has cut this opening at the base of Uluru


Perfectly formed tunnel opening


Looks like sprayed concrete but it is natural wind blown Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Sacred site - pouch of a Hare Wallaby - Uluru


This cave is the female pouch of a hare Wallaby - a very Sacred Site


Information on Mala Puta


Aussie Bush Flowers -

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Views as we walked around Uluru


Aussie Bush Flowers - Wattle

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Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


Views as we walked around Uluru


See how the rock skin has split an opening - Uluru


Free drinking water at the Olgas


Valley of the Winds - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Valley of the Winds - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Fantastic tree bench - Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Not very comfortable but beautiful work - the shine is human oils from touching


Information on Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Colours of the land around the Olgas


Watching the sun set over the 36 rocks of the Olgas


Sun setting over Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Sun setting over Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)


Sunset at Kings Canyon


Information on Kings Canyon


More Information of Kings Canyon


Carol ready to do the 6km walk around the rim of Kings Canyon


I could not walk the Kings Canyon track because I had a huge blister on my right foot


having walked the 11 kilometres around Ayres Rock yesterday


So I waited for Carol with this magnificent bird


Information on Kings Canyon


More Information on Kings Canyon

Monday, May 21, 2007

SYDNEY - HALLS CREEK TRIP 2007

SYDNEY - HALLS CREEK TRIP 2007
Tuesday 15 May to Monday 21 May
Sydney to Broken Hill
Blog 1

We left Sydney after a busy morning and both of us immediately started to relax as we headed west to Bathurst. We stopped for afternoon Devonshire Tea at Blackheath. It was a lovely stop and the autumn colours made the mountains even more beautiful. The smell of the country air was wonderful.

We spent the night at the same caravan park we had been a few times before and in the morning stopped at the beautiful little Bathurst Art Gallery. There were some paintings by Barbara McKay who spent a month at Hill End to do the paintings. It gave us a taste of where we were heading.

Our drive took us through beautiful countryside to Sofala which is quaint little old gold mining town. We walked around enjoying the old buildings and then continued on unsealed road to Hill End. We stopped at the visitor centre where Mike managed to stand in an ant nest and had ants crawling up his pants and up his legs. They were tenacious little buggers and we had quite a job getting them of him. He took off his shoes and pants in the street and we still had trouble getting them off. Once we were ant free we set up camp, collected fire wood enjoyed the beautiful King Parrots eating the pine cones in the trees as we sat by the fire.

The History Hill Museum had collections of artefacts from the area during the gold rush and showed lifestyles in Hill End from the 1850s. The largest nugget was found in the area by Louis Beyers and Halterman which made them very wealthy. Beyers planted an avenue of trees along the main street of Hill End which is still spectacular particularly in autumn.

We then headed off to the lookouts in the surrounding areas starting with Beufoy Merlin Lookout. The day was windless and the view was beautiful. It certainly was a 4WD “road” to get there and the gums in the surrounding bush seemed relatively young. You got the feeling that most of the area had been mined and that the land was regenerating growth on old mullock heaps. The lookout was named after the photographer who took photos of Hill End Township in its hay day in 1872 when it had a population of 7000 people with 34 pubs and all the shops and structures needed for a bustling growing town. The glass plates of this fantastic record were only rediscovered in 1950 in a garage in Sydney and now the photos have been placed along the streets of Hill End to show what used to exist. Now Hill End has a population of 100 with most of the buildings that existed in the 1850s to 1900 gone.

Bald Hill Lookout was next and gave us a view of Hill End. We then drove to the other side of Hill End to Golden Gully which is where the original alluvial gold was mined. It is a fascinating area with quite deep gullies gauged out by the once fast flowing Tambaroora Creek although it had no water in it when we walked along the river bed through the Arch that the river had once carved out.

We walked Hill End enjoying Merlin’s photos along the streets.

It had rained overnight and as we left Hill End there was water flowing through Golden Gully where we had walked the previous day.

We headed north to Mudgee and enjoyed the countryside with plenty of water in the dams, in the paddocks and along the side of the road. At Mudgee we stopped for the compulsory country morning tea, bought petrol at Dubbo and stopped for the night at Nyngan.

We continued heading west along the Barrier Highway to Cobar and saw literally hundreds of healthy looking feral goats. We also saw a lot of kangaroos, emus, Major Mitchell cockatoos, kites, ravens and of course sheep and cattle. The countryside was really looking fresh after the rain.

Cobar, also known as the Copper City, is a town best known for its copper mine which still has 3 operational mines today. It is. It is located on the crossroads of the Barrier Highway and the Kidman Way.

The Great Cobar Heritage Museum was excellent in recording the town’s history. Reverend Stanley Drummond one of the towns early clergy founded the Far West Children’s Health Scheme in 1924 by transforming train carriages into mobile health clinics to travel to remote areas to treat those needing medical attention. His work revolutionised children’s health care in western NSW even though it wasn’t realised at the time.

In the early 1920s the population of Cobar went from 10,000 to 1200 after a fire in the copper mine burned for 6 years and the mine closed down. Three pioneering men, Charles Campbell, Thomas Hartman and George Gibb noticed green and blue rocks. They collected the samples and showed them to a friend Sidwell Kruge, a Cornish woman who had worked as a bal-gal sorting copper ore in Cornwell. The group established a partnership with businessman Joseph Becker in 1870.

We crossed the Darling River on the way into Wilcannia and it was heart breaking to see just the trickle of water at the bottom of the deep banks where once a mighty river obviously flowed.

We arrived at Broken Hill and set our watches back ½ hour to South Australian time.

Even though we had explored Broken Hill in depth the last time we were here in 2000 we still managed to find a new gallery, the Broken Hill Regional Art Gallery in Argent St. The building was a restored building from the late 1800s. There was some great art work including some work from Chris Trotter who built things out of scrap metal. Really great things.
We decided to revisit Silverton to see if the Silverton Pub was still open.


We left Sydney and headed for Bathurst


Autumn is upon us


Fantastic sculpture made of colour pencils - Bathurst Art Gallery


Barbara McKay was an artist in residence - Bathurst Art Gallery


Autumn in Bathurst


Sofala - an old gold mining town


1872 residence - Sofala NSW


Sofala Royal Hotel


Fantastic relic shop - Sofala


Shop on main street - Sofala


General Store - Sofala


Sofala Cottage


Sofala main street residence


Sofala Post Office


Beautiful front garden - Sofala


Autumn leaves - Sofala


Old Sofala Gaol up on the hill above main street


Autumn leaves - Sofala


Historic gold mining town - and the streets are very narrow


One of many boarding houses in Sofala's gold rush era


Oh Oh the foundations at this side have dropped since 1872


Hotel on Sofala main street


Cafe Sofala - shut


Hill End, famous for gold and Artists like Drysdale, John Blackman


Map of Hill End


Rustic autumn leaves at Hill End


more Autumn leaves


Used to be the Hill End Hospital - now the information centre


Beautiful verandahs


Male King Parrot - such striking colours
enjoying the pine cones at Hill End Camping Ground


This is either a juvenile of female King Parrot


Autumn leaves - late afternoon at Hill End


Our rig, an open fire and afternoon sun at Hill End - perfect


Hill End Post Office


Hill End store - most were closed


Russell Drysdale painted exactly this scene


Louis Beyer created this magnificent boulevarde at Hill End in celebration of his wealth


Northey General Store - Hill End


Ye famous 1872 Royal Hotel - Hill End


Shops in Hill End main street - but all were closed


This was the main street of Hill End full of shops, hotels in 1872 - now all gone


Interesting selection of historic artefacts - Hill End Historic Hill Museum


This is the size of the gold nugget that Louis Beyer found in Hill End


One of the Signs we saw at the Hill End Historic Hill Museum


Another of the Signs we saw at the Hill End Historic Hill Museum


And finally this - Hill End Historic Hill Museum


Mine Head - Hill End Historic Hill Museum


Entrance to gold mine - Hill End Historic Hill Museum


Merlin's Lookout - Hill End


Merlin's Lookout - Hill End


Merlin's Lookout - Hill End


Rose's Cottage had this rustic Autumn look


Looking down on township of Hill End from Bald Hill - photo sign as it was in 1872


Bald Hill - Hill End


Carol and our truck on top of Bald Hill


This is called the Arch - it is a river which eroded this now bone dry


We are walking in a river bed at Hill End


How sad - The Arch and no water - how much longer will the drought last?


Close look at the formation of the Arch


Water eroded this once, now it is just another dry gulch


Is this an old house falling apart at Hill End


Or a new house being built?


Love the way the light fell on this timber fence


Just as Carol imagined Hill End would look like in autumn


Just beautiful


House still standing - main street Hill End


We have seen just so many feral goats, this one is not feral


1872 photo of Louis Beyer's Cottage


Louis Beyer's Cottage still standing


Louis Beyer's Cottage - Hill End


Main Street 1872 Northey General Store - Hill End NSW


Could not help myself - I had to take another photo of this famous sign


Carol at the main bar - Royal Hotel Hill End


Hill End Court House


Hill End church


Hill End Public School - built 1872


Faraday Cottage was the original Police Station in Hill End


Hill End Community Nurse and medical centre


Another Hill End church


Hill End - more Autumn leaves


Another church - Hill End


Typical Bush shack - Hill End


Typical Bush shack yard, chimneys and water tank - Hill End


Cobar NSW - lots of copper mined here


Cobar Mine main office - sold to Cobar Council for one dollar in 1968. Now a wonderful museum


Inside Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Inside Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Inside Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Bedroom inside Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Ode to Cobar - inside Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Looking down at open cut section of Cobar Copper Mine from the Museum/office verandah


Beautiful first floor verandah at the Cobar Copper Mine Museum


Underground Copper mine replica - Cobar


Aussie Bush Flower -

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In the grounds of the Cobar Copper Mine


To the right - open cut copper mining


Aussie Bush Flower -

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This train was a mobile Baby Health Centre


What a great idea to look after babies in the bush


Artist Chris Trotter - such fabulous mechanical creations


Traditional Darling River Land Owner


Story about the scuplture


Colonial Romanesque Settler


Silverton Hotel with Mad Max 1979 Ford out front


Carol looking at all the movie memorabillia inside Silverton Hotel


Rear end of Mad Max Movie 1979 Ford Falcon - Silverton


Peter Browne Art Gallery - Silverton


Peter Browne loved painting Emu's


Used to be the Silverton Church


Browne's Gallery with a couple of VW Beetles painted with Emus - Silverton


Another Chris Trotter Scuplture - Silverton


Trotter sculpture and Silverton Cottage


Camel through the wall, metallic kangaroo on ground - Silverton Artists Studio


It has finally rained, Broken Hill scored some 70mm - fantastic


This the opposite side of the road - hard to image how much water used to flow here