Mike & Carol's Bushtracker Adventures Around Australia

Sunday, December 31, 2006

TASMANIAN TRIP - DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007

TASMANIAN TRIP
DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007
Monday 25 December to Sunday 31 December
Hobart
Blog 4

Christmas Day and we decided to drive up to 1270m high Mt Wellington which was covered in cloud. It was a fantastic winding road and it was snowing. The top of the mountain had a light covering of snow, the wind was blowing, the trees and cars were covered in snow and it was Zero degrees Centigrade.

We continued our mountain explore and drove on to Mt Nelson, only 360m high, which was used as a signal post to notify Hobart and Port Arthur of incoming vessels using Semaphore and gave us a closer view of the Derwent River.

We explored the old and beautiful houses of the Hobart suburb of Battery Point and then continued on to the cenotaph followed by afternoon tea at the beautiful Botanic Gardens.

Rosny Lookout on the east side of the Derwent River gave us views of Sandy Bay, Battery Point, the CBD, the Derwent River and the Tasman Bridge. We continued on to Bellerive Village, Kangaroo Bluff Point and the Battery at Kangaroo Point with its original big guns and our last stop for the day was Bellerive Cricket Ground.

We had made Hobart our base so that we could explore the surrounding areas easily without the caravan. The day was beautiful and fine so we decided to head to the top of Mt Wellington again to see the view this time. There was no wind and the view was spectacular. We drove south along the Huon Trail to the Tahune Airwalk.

We bought our tickets for the Airwalk at Geeveston which is a little town that has many beautiful sculptures of local identities carved in Huon Pine. We stopped at the rainforest and the Arve River on the way to the Airwalk. We enjoyed both the Airwalk and the Huon Pine walk along the Huon River. The rainforests are just beautiful and the Huon Pines only grow very close to the rivers because they need the water.

Bruny Island was another day trip that we took from Hobart. The car ferry took us from Kettering to North Bruny Island in half an hour. We had enough time to explore the 2 islands before our cruise to the southern part of the South Island. The scenery was fantastic and varied even though it was quite cold and windy. First we headed north to Dennes Point, via Barnes Bay and Nebraska Beach, the northern most point of the islands. It was as the brochures said; quite barren, sparsely populated and not very interesting. Nevertheless the coastal scenes are always beautiful.

We drove to the south island via Isthmus Bay and the neck that connects the 2 islands. We still had time to go to the most southern point of the south island to the Cape Bruny Lighthouse driving through Alonnah and Lunawanna and enjoying the much prettier terrain of the south island. The view from the 1823 lighthouse was spectacular, to the east of the lighthouse was to Southport on the mainland which is the south end of the Huon Trail. We got to Adventure Bay, the main town of Bruny Island, just in time for our boat cruise.

We knew that it would be cold when we were handed rain coats and beanies. We saw the magnificent vertical dolerite cliffs, caves, breathing rocks spectacular columns that the boat drove between. We travelled as far south as The Friars, little islands at the south of south Bruny Island.

We saw colony of Australian Fur Seals including some babies and watched them frolic in the water, lots of black faced cormorants, Kelp Gulls, Gannets and saw the huge areas of kelp attached to the cliffs, growing sometimes as much as 1m a day.

On our way home from this great day we still had enough energy to wonder around Constitution Dock to see at the yachts that had already arrived from the Sydney to Hobart Race and have dinner at the Hobart Food Fest.

The next day we drove down the east side of the Derwent River to Opossum Bay which is a beautiful little community across from Kingston on the mouth of the Derwent River. It is a lovely little community which is not mentioned in any of the tourist brochures and is a well kept local secret.

Our next day trip was to Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula stopping at Dunalley, a beautiful little fishing village with a monument to Abel Tasman, the 1st European to discover Tasmania. We continued on to Eaglehawk Neck which is the neck between the Forestier Peninsula and the Tasman Peninsula.

The Neck was one of the reasons that the Tasman Peninsula was selected for the penal settlement as it was easy to patrol and catch any escaped convicts as the only escape over land was past this narrow neck. The army set up a “Dog Chain” which was literally 18 ferocious dogs chained together so that any one passing the neck would be detected. There is a statue of a dog to commemorate this time.

The main feature of this place is its geological features and the Tessellated Pavement was fascinating. Our next stop at Eaglehawk Neck was the Tasman Blowhole which wasn’t blowing but still worth seeing and then on to the Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen. The cliffs were very high and it was lovely. You can see the progression from cave, to blowhole to arch.

Port Arthur looks spectacular and a boat tour took us around Mason Cove, around the Isle of the Dead which is where the dead from Port Arthur were buried, and past Point Puer which is where the young boy offenders were kept separate from the male offenders. The history of Port Arthur is quite amazing. The convicts who were originally sent here were 2nd offenders, those who had offended once they were already in NSW.

A guide explained the history of the place and of each of the remaining 30 of the original 140 buildings. It was the 1st goal in the British Empire to separate the boys from the men. It also had compulsory education and learning a trade for the boys with optional education for the men. It had a solitary confinement block, hospital, library containing 13,000 books and a lunatic asylum. The cat-o-nine tails was abandoned as a punishment for the prisoners but not army, because they realised that this punishment didn’t act as a deterrent.
They found that solitary confinement was feared by the convicts and actually it really drove many of those confined mad and consequently they built the lunatic asylum. Port Arthur closed as a penal colony in 1877. Port Arthur was a most interesting place and they really tried different things to change the behaviour of the convicts even though some were not successful and the place and conditions were harsh.


Christmas Day, summer - and it was snowing on Mt Wellington, incredible


Someone made a snowman on Mt Wellington today


Mt wellington - only 1270metres high, it's Zero degrees C and it is Snowing


Top of Mount Wellington Tasmania - it really is a white Xmas


Summer snow storm - Mount Wellington Tasmania


Beautiful but freaky - this is mid summer 2006


And we are in a Christmas day Snow Blizard on Mount Wellington


Snow covered rocks look like penguins - Mt Wellington Tasmania


Same place as photo above - but two days later


Christmas Day - new meaning to term "snow gums"


Christmas Day view of Derwent River Hobart from Mount Nelson


Just half an hour ago we were in snow on top of Mt Wellington


View of Hobart city from Mount Nelson


Mount Nelson Signal Station (1811) - Hobart Tasmania


Information on Mount Nelson Signal Station


Colonial Estate - Battery Point Hobart


Stone Cottage - Battery Point Hobart


Colonial Cottage - Battery Point Hobart


Colville Cottage - Battery Point Hobart


Colonial House - Battery Point Hobart


Tree statues - Battery Point Hobart


Anglican Church - Battery Point Hobart


Donated by Japanese artist - Battery Point Hobart


Hobart Cenotaph and Tasman Bridge


Hobart Cenotaph


Information Board - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens Hobart


Clock - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens - Hobart


Wollemi Pine - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Lilly Pond - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Lilly Pond - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Lillies - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Garden House - Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Tasman Bridge and Derwent River from Rosny Lookout


Mount Wellington and North Hobart from Rosny Lookout


Looking south down Derwent River from Rosny Lookout


Looking across at Wrest Point and Sandy Bay from Rosny Lookout


Bellerive Village Hobart and propellor from an old Sydney Ferry


Bellerive Post Office and Servicemans Memorial


Bellerive Memorial - it was another time in History


Marina at Bellerive Village


Kangaroo Bluff Battery - Hobart Tasmania


Gun emplacement looking south - Kangaroo Bluff Battery


Gun looking south - Kangaroo Bluff Battery


Gun pointing across the Derwent River - Kangaroo Bluff Battery


We saw Mt Wellington Xmas Day in snow - today there is sunshine


The Pinnacle - Mt Wellington


Carol on top of sunny Mt Wellington


North Hobart from Mt Wellington


Sandy Bay and Wrest Point Casino from Mt Wellington


Bruny Island from Mt Wellington


Looking across the Derwent from Mt Wellington - left


Looking across the Derwent from Mt Wellington - middle


Looking across the Derwent from Mt Wellington - right


Carol infront of the Pinnacle Lookout at Mt Wellington


Huon Pine sculpture at Geeveston Tasmania


Huon Pine sculpture at Geeveston Tasmania


Huon Pine sculpture at Geeveston Tasmania


Geeveston was a beautiful village on the way to the Air Walk


Inside the museum at Geeveston


On the road to Tahune Air walk we stopped at Lookin Lookout


Remnant machinery from logging in this rain forest at Lookin


Moss, Ferns and huge trees - Lookin Lookout


Steam engine used to provide energy for the logging machinery


On the road to Tahune Air walk we stopped at the Arve River


Another look at the Arve River


Mike at Tahune Air Walk


Tahune Forest Air Walk - a tree top 30 minute walk


On this walkway, some 37 metres off the ground


We walked amongst the canopy of the Forest's trees


The views were just spectacular


Looking down to the ground-how tall and straight is this trunk


Eye view of tree trunk 37 metres off the ground


Carol on the Tahune Forest Air Walk


Tahune Forest Air Walk


Looking at the Huon River from the Tahune Forest Air Walk


Huon and Picton Rivers merge - on the Cantilever of the Air Walk


Fallen logs everywhere in the Huon River


Huge tree but shallow roots - it just fell over


Carol at the Huon Pine Walk start point - Tahune Forest


Raging Huon River and lots of naturally fallen logs


Look at how these trees dwarf Carol in the Tahune Forest


Another Huon Pine scultpure at the exit to Tahune Forest


This is a patch quilt at Tahune Forest Air Walk office


Tahune Forest Air Walk was well worth the 80km trip from Hobart


Arve River on our way back to Hobart


We left Hobart at 6:00am to catch the Kettering car ferry


The car ferry will take us to North Bruny Island


The morning was overcast but beautiful


We drove past Rat Bay, Bligh Point, Nebraska Beach, Dennes Point


And at the neck to South Bruny Island stopped at Penguin Walk


Truganini was the last Aboriginal in Tasmania


The view south from the top of Penguin Walk


279 steps down to our truck parked below


189 steps from here to the top - we did it easily


We drove past Alonnah and Lunawanna to reach Cape Bruny


We made it - Cape Bruny Lighthouse


The rock formations were fascinating


Cape Bruny Lighthouse - built 1836


Cape Bruny Lighthouse at the southern most point - Bruny Island


Proud old girl - Cape Bruny Lighthouse


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We are off on a 3 hour boat tour around South Bruny Island


Carol in the protective Jacket supplied to her - she was freezing


Off we headed south from Adventure Bay to tour Bruny Island


Rocks and seaweed on the coast


Rocks that look like Cathederals


Caves everywhere


Big enough to drive through


The water colour was just magical


Black Faced Cormorans


Into another cave through the rocks on South Bruny coast


These caves were a great buzz to approach and view


Nature is truly amazing


And our journey south continues


Incredible columns


Lots of caves


Our boat drove through this gap at over 20 knots - exhilirating


Incredible columns still standing despite the roaring 40's


Shear cliffs - great to look at


And these cliffs are pounded by Antarctic winds and seas


Caves carved into the cliff face everywhere


Red Lichen, cold rocks, seaweed and ocean


Breathing Rocks - water goes into a small cave and puffs out


Sometimes the breathing rocks really blow out


Still heading south on our South Bruny boat tour


So many different rock formations as nature formed this


Eventually the roof will collapse


Spectacular and we get so close in the boat


Who can see the Ginger Bread Man in the Rock


Fishing trawler has a problem - driver can't see over the bow


Another carved opening on the coast


Makes you wonder where all the pirates are


I just loved the primitiveness of the rock shapes


It looks like a Lord of the Rings castle on the peninsula


This seal looked up at us as we went past


Then decided we were not a worry and lay back down


Australian Fur Seals off South Bruny Island


Australian Fur Seal and pup in back


These islands have lots of Australian Fur Seals on them


Australian Fur Seals


Lots of Black Faced Cormorans


There are three tour boats like this - we are on one of them


Australian Fur Seals


Magic island in the Southern Ocean


Not a tree in sight - must be windy and cold


Who cut all these holes in the rocks?


It has been a great trip and now its time to head back to land


Shot tower south of Taroona (where Princess Mary came from)


Constitution Dock where Sydney to Hobart boats dock


Sydney to Hobart racers enjoy beers having finished their race


The public swarm over Constitution Dock and the yatchs


Time to relax - the Sydney to Hobart race is over


Deck of Ichi Ban - ran 2nd in the Sydney to Hobart race


Ichi Ban and Skandia - look how tall their masts are


Beautiful old tall ship in Constitution Dock - Hobart


Princes Wharf Hobart and there is a food festival on


People enjoy Tasmanian Food Fair outside at Princes Wharf


There was even a Greek band


And a Tasmanian Tiger


Grey Human Statue - he was good


Looking at Princes Wharf from Constitution Dock area


I love these old boats even if they have all the mod nav gear


Sculpture at Hobart Wharf


Sculpture at Hobart Wharf


Sculpture at Hobart Wharf


Sculpture at Hobart Wharf


Cray Fishing Trawler at Hobart Wharf


Cray pots - Hobart Wharf


Old buildings at Hobart Wharf - Famous IXL Jam factory


Old Henry Jones (IXL Jams) building at Hobart Wharf


Colourful old buildings at Hobart Wharf


Beach on the way to Opossum Bay


One of many islands around Hobart


Hobarts best kept secret - Opossum Bay


Beach house with great character - Opossum Bay


Another boathouse with lots of flowers at Opossum Bay


Tabletop Mount Wellington from Opossum Bay


Idyllic Opossum Bay - we had hot chips for lunch (yuck)


Cape Direction on our way home from Opossum Bay


Cape Direction on our way home from Opossum Bay


Copping - a small village on our way to Port Arthur


Front of cottage at Copping


Front of cottage at Copping


At Dunalley there was this monument to Abel Tasman


The view at Dunalley wharf was good for the soul


Eaglehawk Neck - Officers Quarters 1832


Eaglehawk Neck - Officers Quarters 1832


Eaglehawk Neck - Old shed near the Dog Line


Information on Eaglehawk Neck Dog Line


Eaglehawk Neck - the Dog Line


Eaglehawk Neck - Dog Line - imagine facing 18 of these


The beach at Eaglehawk Neck


Next point of interest - the Tessellated Pavement


Information on the Tessellated Pavement


Tessellated Pavement - Pirates Bay


Carol at Tessellated Pavement - Pirates Bay


Fantastic and unusual Tessellated Pavement - Pirates Bay


This is totally natural - not made by man


View south from Pirates Bay Lookout above Eaglehawk Neck


Our next stop was the Tasman Blowhole


You can see the ocean through the hole but it wasn't blowing


On to the Tasman Arch


Looking through the Tasman Arch


Another view south from the Tasman Arch Lookout


It's a long way down - The Devils Kitchen


Aussie Bush Flower -

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Port Arthur Penal Colony


We started with a boat cruise around Mason Cove


Looking back towards the Hospital (above left) and Penitentiary


Clerk of Works House, Slipway and Shipwright's House


Isle of the Dead - over 900 buried here


Point Puer where 800 minors (9 to 18 year old convicts) lived


Looking at the Tasman Sea from around back of Point Puer


Dominant main Penitentiary with Hospital upper left


Jetty Cottage - Port Arthur


This was our guide Mary at Port Arthur - she was very good


This is the fresh water creek that supplied the Penal Colony


Row of beautiful old English Oak trees planted in 1830's


Separate Prison - Port Arthur


Mock up of a solitary confinement prison cell


The hallway between the cells had a fireplace for warmth in winter


Here were some of the separate cells


This was the compulsory chapel at Separate Prison - Port Arthur


Looking at the chapel from the pulpit


Staircase to Chapel - Separate Prison - Port Arthur


Farm Overseer's Cottage - Port Arthur


Looking past the Paupers Mess up to Smith OBrien's Cottage


Port Arthur Asylum (now Museum)


Convict Wood Carving in Museum


Old Convict drinking mug - Port Arthur Museum


Convict meal examples - Port Arthur Penal Colony Museum


Convict clothes - Port Arthur Penal Colony Museum


Leg Irons weighed up to 18kg and convicts wore no socks


Emu Egg carved with picture of Port Arthur


One of the Penal Colony documents in the Port Arthur Museum


Port Arthur Asylum - from Paupers Mess


Paupers Mess - Port Arthur


Remains of Hospital - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Convict Smith Obrien's Cottage - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Worn steps - Officers Quarters - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Guard Tower overlooking Mason Cove


Carol at Port Arthur Penal Colony


Guard Tower corner, Hospital in background


View from Commandant's House


Commandant's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Hall - Commandant's House


Main Bedroom - Commandant's House


Dining Room - Commandant's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Hall Clock - Commandant's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Sitting Room - Commandant's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Piano - - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Commandant's writing desk - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Commandant's House Kitchen


Pantry - Commandant's House


Bed-sitting Room - Commandant's House


with beautiful fireplace


Front of Guard Tower - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Penitentiary Wall - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Walking yard in penitentiary - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Penitentiary used to be a flour mill and grainery


Main Penitentiary - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Front of main Penitentiary - Port Arthur Penal Colony


All this land is reclaimed from the sea - main fresh water creek


English lawn and gardens in front of Church - Port Arthur


Trentham Cottage - Port Arthur Penal Colony


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Junior Medical Officer's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Bedroom - Junior Medical Officer's House


Trunk in attic children's hall


Roman Catholic Chaplain's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Magistrate's and Surgeon's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Accountant's House - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Parsonage - Port Arthur Penal Colony


The Church - Port Arthur Penal Colony


The Church - Port Arthur Penal Colony


The Church - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Church Bell (1847) - Port Arthur Penal Colony


The Church - Port Arthur Penal Colony


Government Cottage - Port Arthur Penal Colony


The Church from Government Cottage - Port Arthur Penal Colony


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Port Arthur Penal Colony


Mason Cove, Isle of the Dead, Point Puer from Palmer's Lookout

Sunday, December 24, 2006

TASMANIAN TRIP - DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007

TASMANIAN TRIP
DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007
Monday 18 December to Sunday 24 December
Strahan to Hobart
Blog 3

The West Coast Wilderness Steam Train from Strahan to Queenstown was highly recommended so we took the 4hour journey that went through the beautiful rain forests, along the King River and finally the Queen River which has been terribly polluted from the copper mining in Queenstown. The Queen River had in turn polluted the King River. It is sad to see the destruction but in the late 1800s people didn’t know any better. We had 3 stops along the way including lunch and we watched them turn the steam engine around and attach it to the other end of the train. It rained on and off for most of the day but it just added to the magic of the rain forest.

The rain stopped and the sun and blue sky appeared as we drove down to Macquarie Heads in Strahan and on to the beach. What a beautiful sight. We then headed down on to the Ocean Beach which is a 40km beach on the west coast. Even though it was a calm day the water was very rough but most beautiful. Nothing beats the beauty of the ocean.

After Strahan we drove to Queenstown very slowly because of the winding road taking our time to stop at the lookouts on the way to enjoy the scenery.

We walked to the top of Spion Kop Lookout to get the best view of Queenstown. They couldn’t manage to keep any grass growing on the oval so they covered it with silica. You would have to be tough to play either cricket or football on that oval, but then again it is a mining town!!!!

We took the Mt. Lukes Road scenic drive stopping at Newell Creek to see the Huon Pine, King Billy Pine and the Celery Top Pine. Then it was off to Mt Huxley Lookout from where you could see Queenstown and the surrounding mountains, particularly those that had been mined.

Our last stop on the scenic drive before we arrived at Queenstown was the Lake Burbury Lookout. The lakes and waterways are abundant in this area. The lake like most other waterways around here are brown with tannin particularly from the button grass and it makes for beautiful reflections. The Queen River flows into the King River both of which are contaminated and the contamination has washed into Macquarie Harbour and formed a delta.

We stopped at Nelson Falls which was a lovely waterfall and then walked along the Franklin River Nature Trail. It is certainly a beautiful river.
After enjoying Cradle Mountain so much we decided to drive into the southern end of Cradle Mountain Lake St. Clare National Park and spend a few days at Lake St. Clare. It is a most magnificent lake. The water is like glass with huge trees surrounding it. We walked the track to the platypus viewing station and were lucky enough to see 2 platypuses swimming in the water.

The boat ride on the lake took us to Echo Point where we got off and then started our 11km walk back home. The walk was spectacular. The track we walked along was the last section of the Overland Track which starts at Cradle Mountain on the Crater Lake walk. So we had done both ends of the Overland Track just not the 5 days hiking in between!!. We saw lots of myrtle, sassafras, native laurel, all sorts of ferns, gums and of course the mosses and fungi. It was a fragrant and visual feast.

At Derwent Bridge we stopped at the art work of Greg Duncan who is an Australian sculpture working on a 100m long mural that depicts the logging history of the area. It has a beautiful feeling to it. It is called the Wall in the Wilderness and the building is set in Aussie bush of gum trees. It is hard to believe that it is only 6km away at St Clair where there is temperate Rain Forest with mainly myrtles, leatherwoods, sassafras and ferns.

We were in hydro-electricity country and Bronte Park is where the workers from the hydro-electric scheme lived in huts from about 1930 onwards. Each worker had his own hut, basic but adequate.

The engineering feat is an amazing thing, from its idea to the building process. We continued up and down the steep winding road to Tarraleah which is the site of 2 hydro-electric plants from 2 different rivers and overlooks the Nive Valley. We drove passed some beautiful lakes, Bradys Lake, Lake Binney and Tungatinah Lagoon.

Hamilton was our next stop which is an historic town where the whole town has been classified by the National Trust.

We had finished sight seeing for the day and decided to continue on to Hobart, our base for a few weeks.

Salamanca markets is a must see in Hobart. There were lots of stalls and lots of people but it wasn’t frantic. We decided to do the tourist thing and take the double Decker bus ride around Hobart. It went through Battery Point, the Cascade Brewery, the Female Factory, the wharfs and the city. It was a chance for Mike to enjoy the scenery without having to drive.

We drove the short distance to Richmond and explored the beautiful historic town, 1823 bridge, the gaol, the oldest Catholic Church in Australia, John’s Church, St Lukes Church, oldest State School in Australia and all the little shops.

It was built before Port Arthur and most of the stone places were built around 1830s with stone from a local quarry and with convict labour.

Most of the convicts were given to free settlers as free labour and the gaol was only used for repeat offenders, pregnant women and bushrangers that were caught. It was the only goal that had both male and female convicts. Ikey Solomon (the person on which Charles Dickens based his Fagin character) was one of the prisoners here. It is all so picturesque now.


It was raining and miserable - a perfect day for a train ride


On the Wilderness Railway


All aboard


The journey (37 kilometres) is from Strahan to Queenstown


Huon Pine Carving of a train driver


The tourist class carriage was beautifully built


Over the Iron Bridge on the King River - one of 40 bridges


Our first stop - Lower Landing


A very pretty Station


Aussie Bush Flower - Mauve Foxglove

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Aussie Bush Flower - White Foxglove

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One of 40 bridges we will cross on this 37km journey today


Sadly the King River was poisoned by copper mining Queenstown


Back on the train as our journey continues


Through magnificent temperate rain forests


About to leave Lower Landing Station


Diesel Engine half way then steam engine to Queenstown


Remains of the original steel bridge which had to be replaced


Silouettes of huts occupied by the original track builders


Mount Lyell No. 5 Steam Engine


Being back up to the round about to connect to our carriages


Two men turn the Mount Lyell No. 5 Steam Engine


It's got to be hard work - imagine the weight of the engine


The engine driver ready to back onto our carriages


Here at Dubbil Barril - love the spelling


We had lunch here at Dubbil Barril


Whilst the Steam Engine was connected


No you can't drive it Carol


We had time to do a short loop walk through the rain forest


The trees, mosses and lichens are just fantastic


With little creeks bubbling up everywhere


Reconstructed wooden bridge


Piled some 18metres into the ground


Man Ferns and Mothershield Ferns everywhere


Time to go whistles the train


Cockpit of this steam engine was immaculate


Originally built in 1938 and rebuilt in 2004/5


The King River was poisoned by the Queen River


Spectacular King River Gorge


View leaving King River Gorge


Our next stop was Rinadeena


The steam engine needed to take on 3,000 litres of water


Bee Hives around the leatherwood trees


Time to move on again


This carriage is made of black Sassafras - the light was great


We stopped briefly at the Queen River Hotel


And finally arrived at Queenstown


View of Queenstown Station


This was also refurbished to house the train


We thoroughly enjoyed the train trip from Strahan to Queenstown


A bus returned us to Strahan and we drove to Ocean Beach


Ocean beach is right off Hell's Gate entrance to Macquarie Harbour


View of the Southern Ocean


Roaring 40's from South America hit this shore line first


And it is quite spectacular


Federation Cottage in Strahan


Cottages in Strahan


Old Stone Cottage in Strahan


Cottage in Strahan


39 accomodation sites in Strahan a town of only 700 people


We drove back to Queenstown and admired these sculptures


Just beautiful


Mt Lyell Queenstown mines Copper and Gold


The sculpture in Queenstown


This retired rig - part of the sculpture at Miners Siding Queenstown


Copper tailing polluted Queen River killed everything


and went on to kill the King River too


Queenstown's mined hills


Silica Football and Cricket Stadium - Queenstown TAS


Queenstown from the lookout


Queenstown Empire Hotel and Railway Station from the lookout


Copper, Gold and Quartz


Views from hills around Queenstown on Mt Jukes Road


Lake Burbury from lookout on Mt Jukes Road


Main Street - Queenstown


Ugly mining residues as we left Queenstown


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Last look at Queenstown and Mt Llyell copper mined hills


The rock strata as we drove away from Queenstown


Lake Burbury was huge


and very pretty


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Our next stop was Nelson Falls


Map of Wilderness Highway and Nelson Falls


The walk into Nelson Falls was great


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Nelson Falls


Looking back from Nelson Falls


Information on Manfern - so we can recognise them


Information on Mothershield fern


Information on Fishbone fern


Information on Hard water fern


The river at Nelson Falls


Hard Water Fern


Our next stop - the famous Franklin River


Through the forest we go


and there it is - The Franklin River
Conservationists won - they saved the Franklin


Carol - blesser of all waters - blessed the Franklin


And our final stop for the day - Magnificent Lake St Clair


Lower part of the Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National Park


Lake St Clair


Lake St Clair


We took this evening walk to Platypus Bay


The afternoon light on this Waratah was brilliant


Look at the huge Burl on this tree


Watersmeet is where the Hugel and Cuvier Rivers meet


Hugel (left) & Cuvier (right) meet and flow into Lake St Clair


We were lucky to see this Flame Robyn from a hide on the track


This is Platypus Bay


The swirl infront of the rock is two Platypus at play


Lake St Clair


Lake St Clair


Mount Olympus - back centre of photo


Lake St Clair


Lake St Clair


Echo Point - 11km from Cynthia Bay


We are going to trek the 11km on the Overland Track


The views on the Overland Track vary so much


From pretty little flowers nestled in moss on dead trees


to Fungi growing on the side of huge trees


The track is often hard to see and distinguish


As we walk through the rain forest


We climb from 10m to over 700m in height, up and down


Lake St Clair always on our left


This fungi caught my eye - I've seen it before somewhere


The Overland Track - walk through mud, through tree roots,


Past huge trees, both upright and fallen


Fungi and moss on fallen tree trunk


This gives you an idea of how big some of these trees are


Lots of huge tree just fall into Lake St Clair


They cut steps into this huge fallen log - Mike crosses eyes shut


View down near the water as we continued our trek


Only to climb 700 metres to trees covered in moss like this


Down then up - The Overland Track


What a fantastic track the Overland Track is to trek through


Open woods as we near the end of our 11km trek


The sign says 3 hours - we took 3 hours and 10 minutes


We left Lake St Clair and headed for Derwent Bridge


Sculptor Greg Duncan is sculpting 100 Metres of Wood Panels


We then visited Bronte Park Historic Hydro Village


Information on Hydro Power in the Tasmanian Central Highlands


Immigrant Hydro worker lived in a shack like this


This was a typical room for an immigrant Hydro worker


including wardrobe for an immigrant Hydro worker


Hydro workers statue - wheelbarrow,shovels and picks


Tarraleah Hydro-Electric Generator and Water Feeder Pipes


Information on Tarraleah Hydro-Electric Development


How Hydro Energy is generated in the Central Highlands


Information on how Hydro Energy is generated


A lot of Polish hydro workers arrived in their WWII uniforms


We then visited historic Hamilton - A National Trust Town


Hamilton Historic Pub


Old colonial Stables - Hamilton


Original School House - Historic Hamilton


Quaint Colonial House - Historic Hamilton


with beautiful gardens - Historic Hamilton


Colonial House - Historic Hamilton


1856 House, now Emporium - Historic Hamilton


Buskers at Salamanca Market - Hobart


Salamanca Market - Hobart


Salamanca Market - Hobart


Human Statue - Salamanca Market - Hobart


Pacific Gull in Constitution Dock - Hobart


Richmond Bridge - Australia's oldest existing convict bridge


Richmond Bridge - Australia's oldest existing convict bridge


St John's Roman Catholic Church (1836) from Richmond Bridge


Richmond Bridge - built in 1823


Richmond Bridge - Australia's oldest bridge - 1823


St John's Roman Catholic Church (1836) signboard


St John's Roman Catholic Church (1836)


St John's Roman Catholic Church (1836)


Inside St John's Roman Catholic Church


Inside St John's Roman Catholic Church


This Prayer for Tourists made us smile


This tombstone is dated November 3rd 1840 - still standing


St John's Roman Catholic School oldest in Australia (1840's)


Richmond Gaol - Oldest existing Convict Gaol


Inside the Richmond Gaol walls - Keystone says 1825


Gaolers House and Courtyard inside Richmond Gaol


Men's Solitary Block - Richmond Gaol


Inside of a Solitary Cell


Note nogging wall (brick filled timber frame) in Sleeping Rooms


Typical Iron bed -1830's


Punishment Cell - Richmond Gaol


Solid Door, large bolt and view-hole - Richmond Gaol


Hallway in original 1825 section of Richmond Gaol


Flogging Yard - a maximum of 36 lashes could be ordered


Model of Female prisoner in Solitary cell


Left - Gaolers House, front Turnkey - Gaol Entrance


Model of a male prisoner at Richmond Gaol


Carol was taken by these Ladies and Gentlemen signs


Lots of old buildings in Richmond - this one was 1830


Originally a general store, then a saddlery


Colonial Timber Cottage - Richmond


Richmond Arms (1888) formerly the Commercial Hotel


Richmond Grainery (c.1829)


Old Richmond alley


Beautiful gardens and Colonial Cottage - Richmond


Old Richmond Hotel (c. 1830's) now a private residence


Colonial Cottage - Richmond


Looking up main street of Richmond - Ashmore Tea Rooms (c 1850)


Magnificent scented Roses - Richmond Tasmania


Oak Lodge (c. 1830) was home of USA Doctor William Clark


Carriage stable at Oak Lodge


Walnuts not ripe yet - Richmond


Congregational Church (1873) - Bridge Street Richmond


St Lukes Church (1834) - foundation stone laid by Gov. Arthur


Inside St Lukes Church - Richmond


Kids made this Christmas Mural inside St Lukes Church


St Lukes looking towards Coal River and Gatty Dam


Richmond Primary School (1834) oldest State school in Australia

Sunday, December 17, 2006

TASMANIAN TRIP - DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007

TASMANIAN TRIP
DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007
Monday 11 December to Sunday 17 December
Stanley to Strahan
Blog 2

Woolnorth is an extensive wind farm situated on the North West point of Tasmania with its spectacularly rugged coastline. The tour we took allowed us to get right up to the windmills and see, feel and hear their quiet power. Each turbine was 60m high and each arm of the windmill was 38m. There were 37 wind turbines in operation with another 27 in the process of being constructed. Each turbine can supply approximately 800 homes. It was pretty impressive stuff. The “Roaring 40s” were blowing what we were told was an average day with the wind blowing at 60km/h. It was an exhilarating feeling and we had the BEST time. The wind was so powerful that we were walking at a 450 angle.

We also had the opportunity to see the beautiful American cedar timber homestead that belonged to the Woolnorth Farm which produces beef from the Freshians cattle for the McDonalds market.

We drove to the most north westerly point on the island, Cape Grim. Again the view was spectacular and the wind and rain were howling.

After the tour finished we headed south through Irish Town, Edith Creek Trowutta and Tayatea bridge which crossed the Arthur River. It was very picturesque and we decided to continue to Milkshake Hills Forest Reserve and do the short walk through the rain forest. It was a cold 60C outside but it was exhilarating and the smells of the bush were fantastic.

We headed south down the west coast and stopped at Dismal Swamp which is a Blackwood Sinkhole. The beautiful Blackwoods, which are a type of wattle which grow up to 50m, flourish in the swamp environment. Their seeds can stay dormant in soil for up to a century. They usually germinate when triggered by some disturbance like a fire, flood or logging. The crayfish in the swamp churn up the soils which oxygenate the soil. The trip to the bottom of the swamp was via an enclosed slide which we slid down on mats. It was great fun. The boardwalks in the swamp led to sculptures by different artists some were carved in the trees while others were in amongst the plants.

Arthur River was our next stop where there was a well named spot called “The end of the world” where the coastline is very rugged and beautiful and of course there was a lighthouse at Bluff Hill Point.

We took the Arthur River cruise and met up with people that we have seen along the way. It was a great day with Rob the captain supplying lots of information, beautiful scenery and lunch. We cruised 14km up the river to where the Frankland River joins the Arthur.

We watched the 2 resident sea eagles swoop down for the hand out food. The female sea eagle has been in the same nest for 41 years and has had at least 1-2 chicks each year. They mate for life but her 1st partner was killed and now this new male has been her partner for the last 13 years.

The nest is huge as it is added to and renovated each year. The tree that it is in is larger than the other surrounding trees as the bird droppings and the bones they clean out of the nest regularly add fertiliser to the soil around the tree. It is a beautiful symbiosis. The sea eagles control the first 3km of the river and there are 2 wedge tail eagles in the next section and then a younger pair of sea eagles control the last section.

Rob explained the history of logging in the area and the flora and fauna. The huge Tasmanian Oak trees are not oak at all but rather stringy bark eucalypts, but as Rob said, who wanted to buy eucalypt timber!!! There were also sassafras trees, myrtle and leatherwood. The leatherwood flowers supply the nectar for the bees to make leatherwood honey for which Tasmania is quite famous.

We left Arthur River behind and headed east toward the Tarkine on the South Arthur Forest Drive with our first stop the Kanunnah Bridge which spans the Arthur River further up and onto the beautiful Sumac lookout which gives a bird’s eye view of the Arthur River and the beautiful Blackwood Trees.

Our last tourist stop for the day was the Julius River Walk which included a beautiful sinkhole through which we walked. It had the most amazing ferns, mossy myrtles and trees. The final walk was along the Julius River again a beautiful Rainforest but quite different from the sinkhole area even though it was right next to it.

We stopped at Lake Chisholm and walked through the rain forest to the lake. This lake was also a sinkhole but the area where the water used to seep away has become blocked by organic debris and the lake formed. The sinkholes form in dolerite rock which is not found on the mainland. It was a great way to start the morning. We really enjoy the temperate rainforests. The Dempster Plains was the last lookout which overlooked the plains but it was very hazy because of the bush fires so the view was limited but the summer flowers were fantastic.

Travelling further south we stopped at Corinna along the Pieman River which uses a barge for the river crossing but we were too heavy and too long to use it. Corinna is quaint and tiny with a population of 5 and is in the process of developing tourist accommodation.

We stopped at Waratah to see the waterfall which is the start of the mighty Arthur River.

We arrived at Cradle Mountain on a rainy and freezing evening but woke up to blue skies even though it was VERY cold 30C. We walked the 6km around Dove Lake enjoying the views and certainly warming up in the process.

A guided tour informed us about the history, plants and geology of the area and how the valleys were carved out by glaciers. The mountain is mainly basalt and dolerite. There are temperate rain forest areas with myrtle beech trees, Alpine Yellow gum, Tasmanian Snow Gum, Sassafras, King Billy Pines, Plum Pines and many flowering shrubs. The tour also took us to Waldheim Lodge which was the original lodge built by Gustav and Kate Weindorfer who recognised the beauty of the area and bought land, built the lodge and opened it for the public in 1912. The mountain area is so beautiful.

Even though the day was pretty full we decided to go to the Tasmanian Devil night which enabled us to pat the Tasmanian Devils and watch them feed.

There was one more walk that we still wanted to do before we left Cradle Mountain so we headed to the Crater Water Falls and the Crater Lake.

Our journey down the mountain was on bitumen road to Tullah, where saw the beautiful Lake Rosemary and then on Zeehan.

Zeehan is a tiny mining town which had it’s hey day in the 1890s. We didn’t go into the mining museum which we later found out was THE BEST mining museum but we weren’t going to drive back. It was quite steep mountain driving. There are not many straight and level stretches of road in Tasmania. We continued on to Strahan.

The World Heritage Cruise leaving Strahan on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River gave us the chance to see the area and learn about its history in comfort.

The cruise boat first headed to the opening of the Harbour, called Hells Gate, which is only 70m wide and very treacherous. The term came from the convicts who considered the penal settlement on Sarah Island hell and therefore the heads of the harbour were called the gates to hell.

The Tasmanian Salmon farms are also in the harbour. Our first stop was the penal island of Sarah Island which operated for 12 years from 1821 to 1832. It was a very harsh place for both men and women prisoners who were repeat offenders since arriving in NSW. Richard Davey was our guide around the island and his telling of the stories was fantastic. The cruise up the Gordon was beautiful and the rain forests are fantastic. We stopped at Heritage Landing to see the beautiful Huon Pine Trees in the forest. They are a magnificent site.

We saw a couple of snakes sunning on a log. After that we headed back to Strahan. On Richard Davey’s recommendation we went to see the play, “The Ship That Never Was”. He had written it and it was the story of the last ship that was built on Sarah Island from Huon Pine. Audience participation was great fun.


We arrived at Woolnorth for a half day tour of the Wind Farm


That's the Southern Ocean and the roaring forties was roaring


Looking West towards South Africa's Cape - Southern Ocean


The West coast of Northern Tasmania was magnificent


Carol held on for dear life - the wind was so very strong


There are 37 of these wind turbines each 60 metres high


Each Wind Turbine creates enough energy to supply 800 houses


The Turbine is housed in a structure the size of a tourist bus


How the Vestas Turbine works


How the energy is conducted


Unbelievably tall these Wind Turbines


Each arm is about 38 metres long - that's Carol back there


This whole enterprise cost $AUD175 million


How could anyone oppose this wonderful technology


They are quiet, efficient and last about 20 years


Manager built this Red Cedar home in mid 1970's for $AUD250,000


Great Dining Room


The Govenor's Bedroom


This was the walk-in wardrobe of the Govenor's bedroom


The Loungeroom was wonderfully comfortable


Crest of the Van Diemens Land Company - est. 1825


The outside of the Red Cedar house-such an impressive building


This was our tour bus - Helene our guide was so informative


We left the Managers house to inspect the Woolnorth property


This was the cooks house built in approx 1830


This is the Cape Grim Air Pollution Station - the only one in Australia


Bass & Flinders named these the Dough Boys because they looked


like loaves of bread


The sea was just so turbulent and the wind howled at 60kmh


The view from the furthest north-west corner of Tasmania


Looking south


Such incredible scenery - the photo does not do it justice


Trefoil Island was inhabited by Aboriginals


We drove to Milkshakes Forest Reserve


Information on the Milkshakes Forest Reserve nature walk


Milkshakes Forest Reserve - just so beautiful


Milkshakes Forest Reserve - lush, green forest


Huge trees touch the clouds - Milkshakes Forest Reserve


The track was made of cut tree sections covered by moss


So many different mosses reclaiming the forest


Last look at Circular Head - The Nut (Stanley)


Dismal Swamp is a fascinating sinkhole - 46km south of Stanley


You can walk or slide to the sinkhole at the bottom - we slid


The Trees are just so tall - so magestic


The sinkhole has a walkway maze with sculptures - like this


This they call the dining room


Simply beautiful


Oh oh another sculpture in the Dismal Swamp sinkhole


And these too


The tree infront of this chair is a Myrtle over 500 years old


Myrtle leaves are very small but so colourful


One of the sculptures on the maze walk entrance


This is the walkway around the maze of Dismal Swamp sinkhole


Dismal Swamp tree creature sculpture


Crayfish craters (100 times bigger than the real thing) at Dismal Swamp


Crayfish


"Beyond every door there are secrets"


Tactile experience enhancement - Dismal Swamp


This sculture responded to touch by making sounds


Look at the different colours of Myrtle leaves on this one branch


We missed this sculpture twice - but finally found it


The walk through Dismal Swamp was great


One of the woodwork samples at Dismal Swamp Cafe


Another beautiful blackwood creation at Dismal Swamp


15,000km west of here is Argentina - we are at Gardiner's Point


They call this the Edge of the World - magnificent


Edge of the World - fantastic view towards Arthur River


Edge of the World - magnificent colours


Edge of the World - Roaring 40's winds


We are off on a 4 hour cruise and BBQ lunch on the Arthur River


The boat folk put out some raw meat for the Sea Eagles


In she flew to grab the meat


She got it!


And off she flew to her nest of two baby Sea Eagles


The Sea Eagles nest is 41 years old


The Arthur River Rainforest has never been logged


We went 14km up the Arthur River and the scene was unbelievable
It has been this way for thousands of years


The Arthur River is more than 10metres deep edge to edge


We came ashore for a talk by our skipper and a BBQ lunch


Rob (our skipper) was a 5th generation local and so informative


He talked about the trees, area history, and logging


After lunch we headed back to the mouth of the Arthur River


It had been a magical river cruise


Our next stop was Couta Rock


Couta Rock on the West coast of Tasmania


View of the Arthur River from Kanunnah Bridge - looking West


View of the Arthur River from Kanunnah Bridge - looking East


We were on the Sumac Road heading for Julius River Reserve


Aussie Bush Flower - Foxglove

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The Sumac Lookout sign was cut out of one half log


View of the Arthur River from Sumac Lookout


At Julius River Reserve we first took the sinkhole one hour walk


This Tasmanian Oak is over 300 years old


And reaches over 60metres straight up


The rainforest of full of fungi and parasites and mosses


And beautiful women and ferns


The floor of the sinkhole is magical to walk over


Nature reclaiming the fallen trees


After the sinkhole we took the Julius River Rainforest Walk


We walked a while along the Julius River


and mirror perfect pools


and then we climbed into the rainforest


Up steps of moss covered logs


Which felt very natural even though National Parks made them


Finally we spent the night at this free camp site - Julius River


First stop today - Lake Chisholm


A sinkhole that blocked up creating a lake


Information on Lake Chisholm


Thre rainforest walk to Lake Chisholm was breathtaking


Fungi of all sorts on the trees


Lots of Trees that were 100's of years old


Tall and straight and so wonderful to see


and finally the loop walk led us to Lake Chisholm


Such a magical feel - imagine, this is a blocked sinkhole


How refreshing this walk was


This fallen tree is over 60 metres (200 feet) long


This fungi looks like a space ship wedged in the tree


Aussie Bush Flower -

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Aussie Bush Flower - Button Grass Flower

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Aussie Bush Flower - Southern Heath Flower

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Aussie Bush Flower - Golden Rosemary

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Dempster Plains


Aussie Bush Flower - Shiny Tea Tree Flower

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Aussie Bush Flower - Spreading Guinea Flower

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We saw fields of Aussie Bush Flowers like this

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On the Western Explorer road on our way Corinna


Vegetation varied from cold mountain to Temperate Rainforest


We drove over the Savage River on our way to Corinna


We stopped at the Corinna General Store for a "cuppa" tea


Only Five people now live in Corinna


Information on Corinna


This used to be the old Pub at Corinna


This is the barge across the Pieman River, but we were too big to go on it


This Huon Pine boat is the Arcadia II at Corinna - gorgeous


Inside the "Philosopher's" House - Waratah


This is the source of the Arthur River at Waratah


After raining all night we woke to a glorious sunny 3C


The most popular walk at Cradle Mountain-walk around Dove Lake


And off we go it's around 6km and will take over 2 hours


Where ever we go we see Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake


Button Grass moorland in front of Cradle Mountain


Button Grass moorland - lots of ground water


Looking across Dove lake to the Boat Shed


Dove Lake is crystal clear - tannin colour from button grass


Aussie Bush Flower - Lemon scented Boronia Flower

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Aussie Bush Flower -

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Aussie Bush Flower -

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Aussie Bush Flower - Cradle Mountain Berries

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Aussie Bush Flower - Golden Rosemary

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Aussie Bush Flower -

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Aussie Bush Flower - Bauera

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Dove Lake - Cradle Mountain


Sand beach on Dove Lake


Looking at Cradle Mountain across Dove Lake


Aussie Bush Flower - Archeria (Southern Heath Family)

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White Lichen overtaking Myrtle Tree


Aussie Bush Flower - Tasmanian Waratah

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Aussie Bush Flower -

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Dove Lake shore


Cradle Mountain


Aussie Bush Flower - Alpine Heath

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Dove Lake


Deciduous Beech Leaves at Dove Lake


Looking across Dove Lake to Cradle Mountain


Waterfall feeds into Dove Lake


Wild Flowers everywhere as we walked around Dove Lake


That's the car park (back of photo) - still a long way to walk


The water in Dove Lake was crystal clear


Back of Dove Lake


Magic view of Boat Shed on Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain


Aussie Bush Flower - Flowering Tasmanian Snow Gum

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Lake Lilla - Cradle Mountain (Left View)


Lake Lilla - Cradle Mountain (Right View)


Black Currawong have yellow eyes and white tail feathers


Weindorfer Forest at Waldheim Lodge


Waldheim Chalet - built in 1912 by Gustav & Kate Weindorfer


Waldheim Chalet


Kitchen inside Waldheim Chalet


Gustav & Kate Weindorfer


Creek in Weindorfer Forest


This was the bathroom built across the creek at Waldheim Chalet


Weindorfer Forest - the moss was fantastic


So many types and colours of moss


King Billy Pine


I thought I saw a rock move - I did


It was a Wombat


Mount Campbell - One of the oldest rocks in the world


In the evening we went to a lecture on Tasmanian Devils


This little girl is around 8 months old


And being a mammal this is her breeding pouch


After the lecture we went outside to see the Devils being fed


The Tasmanian Devil makes horrendous noises


But are actually very cute


They actually co-operate in tearing the carcass apart


Tasmanian Devils feeding on a wallaby carcass


From Ronny Creek we are off to Crater Lake - a two hour trek


400 metres of board walk across the moorland


on the Overlander track


Button Grass and Pandanas - Cradle Mountain


The light on the Pandanas along the creek was great


Off the board walk and now to the old Overlander climbing track


And up we go towards Crater Lake


Tasmanian wild rosemary and button grass ground cover


97 steps through this part (a forest) as we continue our climb


Look it's Crater Falls


A beautiful old Myrtle covered in moss


Crater Falls was small but rushing at incredible speed


Carol resting at the old Myrtle Tree at Crater Falls


And finally we reached Crater Lake


Crater Lake and Alpine white heath - magnificent


Mike at Crater Lake


Crater Lake


Half way down the mountain and we can see Ronny Creek Car Park


And just on our left Carol spotted an Echidna in the button grass


Back at Ronny Creek we waited for the Shuttle Bus


The perfect story, Overlander Track (left) Carol and Mike


Pencil Pine Falls - last stop as we leave Cradle Mountain


We stopped in Zeehan on our way to Strahan


This was the Gaiety Theatre where Dame Nelly Melba sang


Zeehan was a tin mining town - Police station and Court House


Zeehan School of Mines and West Coast Pioneers Museum


Locomotives in West Coast Pioneers Museum - Zeehan


We arrived in Strahan and booked a Gordon River boat cruise


Strahan is a pretty town with one pub - Hamers Hotel


This World Heritage Cruise is a local family business


More of Strahan from the Wanderer II vessel


Looking up a bay in Macquarie Harbour - Strahan


The Esplanade Strahan from the Wanderer II vessel


The Esplanade Strahan from the Wanderer II vessel


Macquarie Harbour - Strahan


On our way to Hell's Gate - the entrance to Macquarie Harbour


Opening on the left - that's Hell's Gate just 75 metres wide


This was the harbour masters house - right near Hell's Gate


Lighthouse at Hell's Gate


Man made breakwater at Hell's Gate to subdue Macquarie Harbour


Looking back at Macquarie Harbour from the Southern Ocean


The shore opposite Hell's Gate - Strahan


The ocean beach at Macquarie Heads Strahan


Salmon and Trout farms in Macquarie Harbour - Strahan


This one ring holds up to 20,000 fish - boat spraying feed


Sarah Island - Macquarie Harbour


Hallidays Island - 80 convicts buried here


Arrival wharf - Sarah Island in Macquarie Harbour Strahan


Sarah Island was a penal settlement established in 1822


Our guide was Richard Innes Davey - great theatrical voice


Old oven on Sarah Island


Information on Military Officer's Cottage - Sarah Island


Remains of the cottage


Information Board - Sarah Island


This was a lime pit from which they ground lime for mortar


Information on the Gaol - Sarah Island Penal Settlement


Ruins of the gaol - Sarah Island


Bakehouse Oven - front view


Information board on Bakehouse


Bakehouse Oven - house on left butted up to bakehouse for heat


Guide Richard wafting eloquently to us tourists


Information board on the Penitentiary


The Penitentiary - side view


Layout impression of the 1833 Penitentiary


The Penitentiary


Information board on the works done on Sarah Island


Huon Pine ships were built here on Sarah Island


Richard showing us where the shipbuilding dock used to be


Remains of shipbuilding slip - Sarah Island


Past ruins of buildings and beautiful Ferns


Time to head back to the Wanderer II


This little fella was tied up at the dock - Sarah Island


Our first look at a Huon Pine tree on the Gordon River


Tannin stained water on the banks of the Gordon River


Up the Gordon River to Heritage Landing


Heritage Landing - part of the Franklin Gordon National Park


These tiny cones on a mature Huon Pine (at least 500 years old)


This is a crayfish mud hole in the Temperate Rain Forest


Aussie Bush Flower - Native Laurel

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Bark of a Huon Pine


See the venomous Tiger Snake sunning - centre of photo


Small white mouth Wip snake sunning on log - venomous too


Love the variety of Fungi


Young Leatherwood leaves (yellowish green)


Huon Pine must be 500 years old to make these minute seed cones


After the cruise we went to a show


called "The ship that never was"


Story about 10 convicts who stole a ship "The Frederick"


Norm was a tourist like us sucked into the performance


These convicts built the ship on Sarah Island then stole it


And sailed it to Chile


Three actors and the rest are audience participants


Including the Parrot (Carol) and Mike who played Capt Barker


Squawk Parrot with water pistol in hand


It was a very funny play


Four of the crew were caught and sent back to Sarah Island


Their defence - they didn't steal a ship, they stole floating


wood and sail cloth - Carol cracked up


The Judge agreed so they did not get hanged for their crime

Sunday, December 10, 2006

TASMANIAN TRIP - DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007

TASMANIAN TRIP
DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007
Monday 4 December to Sunday 10 December
Devonport to Stanley
Blog 1

Boarding the Spirit of Tasmania Ferry at Port Melbourne was the start of our Tasmanians adventure. We knew that we couldn’t take any fruit and vegetables across but were not prepared for the ban on extra fuel so we had to get rid of the 20L each of petrol and diesel that we had. No problems. It was a calm, warm evening and we had a lovely exit from Port Phillip Bay. We don’t really know if the crossing was rough because we slept through it and arrived at Devonport Harbour on the Mersey River to a mild, calm and beautiful blue skied morning.

We decided to spend a few days in Devonport checking out some of its attractions. It is fantastic to be back in travel mode, seeing new places and chatting to new people at the caravan parks. From our caravan window I could see the Spirit of Tasmania coming in and leaving as it blasted its horn to remind me to look out the window.

Our first explore was to Mersey Bluff and along the Mersey River and then further along the coast to Back Beach and onto Coles Beach. They were both beautiful sandy beaches but not white sand.

The weather was raining and cold but it didn’t stop us from driving to Leven Canyon. The countryside is very beautiful, undulating farm land with different crops, flowers and vegetables giving the area beautiful and varied colours.

We walked through our first rain forest to get to the Canyon lookout. It was very windy but beautiful. We took a tour through the Gunns Plains Caves and even though we have been through many limestone caves each one is quite different.

We drove back to the coast via the scenic route and through a tiny place called Penguin where even the rubbish bins are penguins.

On our way back to Devonport we stopped at Turners Beach and Lillico Beach which is where the penguins come out of the water to their homes on land for the mating season. All these places are quite close and are delightful with beautiful English like gardens.

Burnie is situated on Emu Bay and is one of the largest container ports in the country. It is quite an industrial town with the Australian Paper Mill, Hellyers Road Distillery, Woodcraft places and cheese factories. This was our introduction to the beautiful Tasmanian timbers which we fell in love with.

The tour of the distillery was great even though it was quite early in the day to be drinking spirits. Hellyers Distillery was named after Henry Hellyer the explorer/surveyor who discovered the area.

We took the tour through the Australian Paper Mill which makes Reflex paper. It is a large factory with precision machinery manipulating large rolls which roll, cut and pack the paper. It was a fantastic place.

Round Hill Lookout gave us a beautiful panoramic view of Burnie and Emu Bay. It was great that we could drive to the top. Next we headed off to Fernglade Platyous Trail in the Fernglade on the Emu River. It was THE most tranquil spot with beautiful ferns along the Emu River and information about the platypus, birds and flora of the area. We spotted a Pademelon, a small Wallaby, eating along the pathway. It was a most calming place.
Our next stop was the Emu Valley Rhododendrons Gardens which is a beautiful huge garden with a wide range of different rhododendrons from all over the world and also a large variety of other plants. Of course we missed seeing the plants in bloom but it was still lovely.

We stopped at Guide Falls at West Ridgley, they were small but very pretty, then on to Fossil Bluff and Table Cape on the beautiful coastline. It is easy to see why so many lighthouses are needed with such a rugged coastline.

We went to the tulip farm at Table Cape which was also not in full bloom at this time of the year but we learnt a lot about the industry. The area had huge fields of white daisies from which the pesticide companies extract the pyrethrums used in producing their pesticides. The many fields of white opium poppies provide the opium for the production of legal morphine and codeine.

Boat Harbour Beach and Sisters Beach were the first beautiful white sand beaches we saw in Tasmania while the river flowing into the bay was quite brown with tannin from the trees.
We continued on to Rocky Cape Lighthouse which was so different from the other 2 Capes or Bluffs. The day had been great but we still wanted to see the Fairy Penguins come in at Burnie. It was very cold and windy and the penguins only come out of the water after dusk. We waited and rugged up in warm clothes, gloves and beanies. The penguins were so cute and we were very close to them on the boardwalk.

We continued our journey west along the north coast of Tasmania to Stanley which is a most beautiful spot containing old picturesque little timber cottages set on a peninsula which today was very windy.
We went to Highfield Historic Site, the original home of Mr and Mrs Edward Curr the Colonial Chief Agent of the Van Demons Land Company, originally established to set up a sheep industry on the recommendation of the surveyor Henry Hellyer. The Currs had 15 children!!! Many of the sheep died of cold in the first winter and the business did not survive although future dwellers in the house made success of other enterprises. The homestead was set on top of a hill overlooking the township of Stanley and was quite majestic.

Hellyer who explored and surveyed a lot of western Tasmania eventually committed suicide and some of the documentation leads people to believe that he felt bad for the failure of the sheep investment. The stories are amazing and as always the stories of the treatment of the aborigines are quite difficult to deal with.

We took the chairlift to the top of “The Nut” or Circular Hill which is at the end of the peninsula at Stanley. It is a volcanic crater left after the surrounds have eroded. We walked around the top to enjoy the panoramic views even though it was cloudy and hazy from surrounding bush fires. We really enjoyed the views even though the wind was still howling at the top.

After that we wandered around the town and saw the little house where Joe Lyons, the Prime Minister of Australia from 1930 to 1939 was born.

The next day we headed off to the must see Dip Falls and The Big Tree in the Dip River Reserve which is a HUGE gum tree being at least 400 years old in a magnificent rain forest. The wind had totally died down so we went on a seal cruise leaving Sawyer Bay and heading around The Nut to a little island with lots of fur seals, white bellied cormorants, Pacific gulls and a majestic albatross. It was beautiful to out on the water.


Sunset - Chelsea Heights (Melbourne)


We drove from Sydney and our first stop - Chelsea Heights Melbourne


This is the Ferry that will take us to Tasmania tonight


Port Melbourne on our way to the Spirit of Tasmania ferry


There are two Spirits of Tasmania - we were on No. 2


Looking at Melbourne from the deck of the Spirit of Tasmania


Okay Carol where are we going in Tasmania?


6:39am Tuesday arriving at Devonport Tasmania


Looking south down Mersey River Devonport from our Ferry


Quaint Devonport - that's our caravan park


Our rig in the belly of the Spirit of Tasmania


Here's our ferry docked in Devonport Tasmania


View from the mouth of the Mersey River - Devonport Tasmania


Interesting Pier at the mouth of the Mersey River Devonport


Spectacular way to watch ships leaving Devonport


Rocks unstable, beware of ship wake, sharp rocks under water


Looking south to Devonport from Mersey Bluff


The scenery was very peaceful


Mersey Bluff Lighthouse - half striped red, half just white


Views of Bass Strait from Mersey Bluff


Rocks and grass tufts - Mersey Bluff


Tiagarra Aboriginal Centre was closed but we walked the track anyway


Looking at Back Beach and Devonport suburbia


Coles Beach - Devonport


Coles Beach - Devonport


Today we drove to the Leven Canyon


Looking down the Leven Canyon - great


Carol at the Leven Canyon lookout


Next stop - Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


Moss growing on rocks in Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


It takes thousands of years to form these


Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


Gunns Plains Limestone Caves - just beautiful


Looks like a waterfall but it is Limestone


Shawls forming in Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


Looking down at a Palm Tree of Limestone


This shawl looks like bacon - Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


Shawls are just incredible - Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


Stalactite Shawl reaches stalagmite


Limestone Wedding Cake - thousands of years old


Closer look at the Wedding Cake


Gunns Plains Limestone Caves


The caves are some 50 metres below ground level


Town of Penguin - Santa and Xmas Carol


Three Sisters Goat Island Nature Reserve - North West Tasmania


Owners of this house run Fairy Penguin Tours here at dusk


Ulverstone Anzac Memorial


Turners Beach - North West Tasmania


Turners Beach - North West Tasmania


Lillico Beach - home of more Fairy Penguins


Burnie Port from Mount Street Lookout


Burnie and Round Hill from Mount Street Lookout


The Cheese Factory now runs a whisky Distillery


They named the whisky after surveyor Henry Hellyer


We then took a tour of the Burnie Paper making facility.


Australian Paper Mills makes all the Reflex photocopy paper


View on the road from Burnie to our caravan park in Wynyard


Such contrasts of grasses looking to Table Cape


First stop today - Round Hill Lookout Burnie


This walkout led to spectacular views from Round Hill Lookout


We are so high and thats the Bass Highway and Bass Strait


Fernglade is the home of Platypus colonies


The walk along the Fernglade Platypus Trail was magnificent


Perfect retreat for the wild Australian Platypus


The photo does not convey the magic of the scenery


As we walked along Fernglade trail we spotted this Pademelon


We never saw one but this is what a Platypus looks like


After Fernglade we drove to Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden


The scenery was beautiful even though flower season was over


With Rhododendrons from all over the world planted here


Great pagodas


Aussie Bush Flowers - Beautiful Colours

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Aussie Bush Flowers - great colours

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Lots of bees pollenating flowers


Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden


Chinese section - Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden


We then visited Guide Falls - a pretty little waterfall


Looking towards Table Cape


Looking East towards Wynyard from Fossil Bluff


Looking towards Table Cape from Fossil Bluff


Daisies grown for Pyrethrins - used in insect repellants


Magnificent lillies


Aussie Bush Flower - No idea but so colourful

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Aussie bush flower

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Yellow Lily


View from Table Cape


View from Table Cape


Table Cape exports tulip bulbs to Holand


Fields of Tulips and Lillies at Table Cape


Table Cape Lighthouse


Sun Halo around Table Cape Lighthouse


Fields of Opium poppies grown for legal Morphine and Codiene


We had scones at the Jolly Roger - Boat Harbour Beach


View from Sisters Beach


Seagulls at Sisters Beach


Looking from the river to Sisters Beach and Bass Strait


Our final stop for the day - Rocky Cape


The view at Rocky Cape was fantastic


Rocky Cape Lighthouse


Around 9:30pm little Fairy Penguins return to their burrows


We left Wynyard and headed to Stanley and saw this sign


Information on Highfield Historic Site house


This was the entrance and car park to Highfield Historic Site


Across the beach from Stanley was the Highfield Historic Site


Highfield Historic Site with the Nut in the background


Beautifully presented property - Highfield Historic Site


This Peacock just jumped up to the window


Carol and Peacock in Garden - Highfield Historic Site


Inside the kitchen at Highfield


Perfect scene for friend Gerald to paint - Highfield


One of the Highfield corridors


Piano in drawing room at Highfield Estate


Another perfect painting subject - Highfield Historic Site


The colours of the staircase carpet at Highfield were so eyecatching


After dinner room where men would go to smoke - Highfield


Highfield Historic Site dining room


Classic colonial country view - Highfield Historic Site


Chapel downstairs, school room upstairs


Inside Chapel - Highfield Historic Site


White horse, cattle, dead tree, The Nut and Bass Strait


Duck (lunch) hiding under bushes - Highfield Historic Site


The Nut(Circular Hill) and Stanley from Highfield Historic Site


Grave of Henry Hellyer - surveyor who committed suicide in 1832


Time to take the chairlift up to the top of the Nut


Looking back at Stanley from the chairlift


The variation of grasses and bush were great


That's our caravan (see it?) - Caravan Park Stanley


Looking towards Stanley Wharf from the Nut


Looking at Highfield Historic Site from the Nut


They dynamited this cliff but it took 12 years to fall


Spectacular view from the top of The Nut


We walked all the way around the top of Circular Hill (The Nut)


And after some forty five minutes we were back at the chairlift


And heading down the hill - what a super walk


Not Hard Rock - Nut Rock Cafe Stanley


We then strolled the town of Stanley, past the Discovery Museum


Along the main street of Stanley


Past the Stanley Hotel which was established in 1847


We walked past beautiful cottages and gardens in Stanley


Quite quaint, some of these cottages


And this is the cottage where Prime Minister Joe Lyons was born


Joe Lyons was born in 1879 and was Prime Minister 1932 to 1939


The big Rock Lobster - Stanley


Devine Mercy Stone - Stanley


Steel hulled fishing trawler being rebuilt - Stanley


We went to Dip River Rainforest to see the Big Tree


Information on the Big Tree


Carol is dwarfed by this magnificent old tree


The Big Tree - 62 metres tall


One of the root corners on the Big Tree


This was another huge tree that just fell over - Dip River


Fungus and moss - delicious


More information on the Big Tree at Dip River


What a perfect setting the Dip River Rainforest is


Trees covered in moss and fungi


Next stop - 157 steps down to Dip Falls


Dip Falls


What makes Dip Falls special - hexagonal basalt formations


Like these hexagonal basalt formations


Dip Falls does make you want to smile


Dip Falls - see the hexagonal basalt formations


3pm and we are ready to visit a Seal Colony off Stanley


Looking back at Circular Head (the Nut) from our boat


Our first look at the seals on this rock island


Lots of Seals, White Breasted Kormorants and huge Pacific Gulls


We circled the Seal colony four or five times


Seals frollicked in Bass Strait off Stanley behind the Nut